Oxidation

Did you ever notice that right after you cleanse in the morning or evening, your skin looks brighter or even lighter to some degree? Or have you wondered why your skin starts to look dull and sometimes darker as the day progresses? The reason being is because of oxidation.

Sebum (natural oil the skin produces) secretes throughout the day. As the oil is produced on the face (the area that has the most oil glands) it remains there and oxidizes much like how iron oxidizes when exposed to oxygen (i.e. rust). When oil is exposed to oxygen, it oxidizes. Oily, combination and normal skin types are the most common skin types to see significant effects of oil oxidation on the skin.

The effects are harmless but quite apparent depending on the skin type. I find with my oily skin, at the end of the day, my skin doesn't have the 'fresh' look that it does when I first cleanse and apply my routine in the morning. I know with foundation, the foundation itself can mix with the oil and oxidize (become a darker shade).

There actually is something you can do about combating the look of oxidation, even if you have oily or combination skin. Personally, the oil on my skin doesn't oxidize as much as it did before, when I didn't follow a good skin regimen. I may start sounding like a broken record here, but introducing Vitamin C (especially products with L-ascrobic acid as the active ingredient) really does have a significant impact on preventing that dull look. Due to the anti-free radical damage properties of Vitamin C, the oxygen and pollutants attack the Vitamin C, not your skin cells. Vitamin C is great at giving that radiant, luminous look throughout the day.

I also find that using a sunscreen that isn't so greasy helps A LOT. This probably is the number one way to offset the look of oxidation. Unfortunatley most U.S. brand sunscreens are quite greasy and are not cosmetically elegant on the skin. However, if I were to suggest some U.S. drugstore brand ones, I would definitley say Banana Boat Dri-Block SPF 30 or Hawaiian Tropics Oil Free Faces SPF 30.

I love Japanese sunscreens, because they are ACTUALLY matte. Shiseido SPF 55 is very matte, almost like a powder finish. Sofina Perfect UV is my favorite and what I use. It is a matte, completley non-greasy sunscreen that makes my skin look beautiful and refined. I don't even feel like I'm wearing a sunscreen when I wear it.

The only thing with Japanese sunscreens is that they almost always have to be removed with a cleansing oil (check my current skin regimen to see what products I use). They are definitley worth it though,

Euro/Canadian sunscreens are pretty decent as well. Vichy Fast Drying Ultra Fluid SPF 20 is quite matte (but nowhere as good as Japanese sunscreens).

Using a blotting paper throughout the day also really helps with mopping up the excess oil, which in turn prevents that dull look. Remember the point of blotting papers is to blot, NOT to rub. Just gently blot, you don't want to destroy the protective film of your sunscreen.

You can also use a pressed powder, but make sure not to use it over an avobenzone sunscreen, if the powder has titanium dioxide.

Using clay masks a couple of times a week can also suck up trapped sebum deep within the pores, which can really help with regulating healthy sebum secretion. I like Queen Helen Mint Julep Mask.

Cleansing too much can only worsen the problem, since too much cleansing can trigger even more oil production. Just keep it light, try not using too greasy/emollient products, and touch up throughout the day with blotting papers or powder when necessary.

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