All About Skin Lightening: Be Extra Cautious With Melasma

Tuesday, April 27, 2010

Be Extra Cautious With Melasma

If you haven't already checked out my article on Treating Melasma, I suggest reading that first since the bulk of my opinion/research on this topic is found there. However I wanted to make a quick post reminding people with melasma to be extra cautious with their skin. Not just with what skin lightener they choose, but with their overall skin regimen.

I've mentioned Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation several times, but in the case of melasma, it is vital to specifically use sunscreens that do not irritate your skin. This may seem like an overwhelming task. Finding a sunscreen that works for your skin is hard enough, let alone finding one that doesn't have an irritating sun filter.

Recently I blogged about Oxybenzone, and the various studies and controversy surrounding this particular sunscreen ingredient. Since posting that article, I've gotten lots of inquiries and messages about it. I want to clarify that I don't think oxybenzone should be banned or should not ever be used. I simply stated that I recommend to play things safe. Also, the studies involving oxybenzone do not point to any concrete links to the substance and cancer.

Anyway, enough of that tangent. The reason why I am bringing up oxybenzone is because this ingredient might have another setback that specifically applies to melasma sufferers. I have been researching more into the causes of melasma and a lot of signs seem to point to the type/kind of sunscreen one uses. Because melasma has such a high rebound effect, finding a good sunscreen must play a HUGE role in breaking that cycle.

What I found was that certain sunscreen filters (which can be irritating to some people, not all) may aggravate melasma and prolong it. We all know how irritation can trigger irregular melanin production. Well while researching for the article I did on oxybenzone, I discovered that many substances can cause photosensitivity (different from that of AHA use or retinoid use) and irritation which can worsen melasma. One of the ingredient is...uh, oxybenzone.

Personally if I had melasma, I would probably not use a sunscreen with oxybenzone or avobenzone. There are plenty of great, high PPD sunscreens that do not contain these ingredients. Bioderma is known for exceptionally high PPD sunscreens that don't carry oxybenzone or avo.

Just something I wanted to put out there for people who are dealing with melasma.

<333

Labels: hyperpigmentation, PPD, sunscreen

44 Comments:

randy said...: thanks for your help now i feel better :) btw i feel like i need to start using my lightener. when should i start using it?? i still want to use retinoid but my lightener will just become a waste if i dont use it!!! so, should i layer retinoid after d lightener or mix them up together?? which one is better?

thaaannkkssss. i comment in the newest post bcoz its really easy to find ehehehe ;D; April 28, 2010 at 6:10 AM
Anonymous said...: Hi Mileena,

What do you think about Skinceuticals ultra sheer 50 (new). It has all the physical filters is this good for melasma people. I've suffering from melasma from last 5years and been using la roche posay 60 sunscreen everysingle day. I heard that physical filters sunscreen good for melasma people than chemical filters sunsceeen and i beleive la roche posay has chemical filter but at same time it has high ppd .What do you think do melasma people needs high ppd sunscreen or physical based sunscreens.

Thank you; April 28, 2010 at 9:02 AM
Anonymous said...: i would like to have your opinion about Brightening Skin Peel AHA Glycolic Lactic 30% Kojic Lightening Gel.

if i were to include a peel in my regimen, would you suggest this, or pumpkin peel or 40% lactic acid peel

i have brown skin and stubborn suntan; April 28, 2010 at 11:43 AM
Mileena said...: LOL! Yeah actually the reason why I set my comments for approval is so that I can actually *see* which comments are put in which article. So no matter where you place it, I will be notified of it, read it and answer it. =)

If you want to start using your skin lightener, you can do it both ways. Mix it directly with your retinoid or buffer your retinoid. Buffering tends to be the easiest since some products don't always mix well with a retinoid (crumble apart etc.)

Buffering is when you apply the skin lightener first (on cleansed bare skin ofcourse), wait 5-10 minutes for absorption. Then apply your retinoid sparingly on top.

Mixing is always a good option. Apply a pea sized amount of your lightener with a pea sized amount of your retinoid into your palm. Gently mix around (don't push into your palm or blend in aggressively, or you'll just be absorbing it into your palms lol) and with one finger, dip into the 'mixture' and apply over your face.

You'll be getting the most out of this product, retinoids increase the efficacy of the lightener (deeper penetration).; April 28, 2010 at 1:58 PM
randy said...: hey hey i pull what ive said. i wonder why my pimples on left cheek are really tough?! man, u r tougher!!! im also getting annoyed by pimples on my forehead, kinda tough as well! whats up dear? should i wait for 1 month more or maybe it is just my pimples that dont show something good for 1 month????????????? ahh im lazy to think about it. btw since im using cream version, does it make something messy? i mean, i read on fashionesedaily.com that cream buffers everything so always use your serum before moisturizer to get all the benefits from that serum without making it useless bcoz if you apply serum after moisturizer (cream) you wont get anything since cream covers all your face. so, my lightener is cream.. so is my retinoid :) whats should i do then??

btw ill use my lightener after ive cleared up all my problems (left cheek, forehead, very little prolem on right cheek) ahaha :D; April 29, 2010 at 4:26 AM
Mileena said...: Yes that is true, the cream version does act like a buffer. If your lightener is cream, that is okay just apply that first. Wait 10 minutes for that to absorb, and apply the retinoid cream on top.

Anytime you mix or buffer a retinoid, you decrease its efficacy. But not everyone can tolerate retinoids straight on their skin.

;); April 29, 2010 at 8:14 AM
Anonymous said...: Hello Mileena,

Could you pls let me know if Sofina sunscreen in good for oily acne prone melasma skin . What % of zinc oxide this contain . Do i need oil cleanser to wash this off i do have oily skin and where can i buy this product in canada any trusted online store where i do not have to pay duties and taxes.I want to try this badly since you liked it so much will this be enough for everyday for my bad melasma . Pls help!!!!; April 29, 2010 at 9:16 AM
Mileena said...: The Sofina is amazing, seriously it is the only sunscreen I use on my face (well for everyday wear, if I am going to be out in the sun for awhile I'll use LRP Fluide or something stronger). It is very matte, controls oil and is probably the best for oily acne prone skin. I have yet to find a sunscreen as perfect as this.

For melasma...well, because melasma requires high PPD and the Sofina has 'regular' or a decent PPD level I would say to go for something higher/stronger, but it also depends on how much sun exposure you get as well.

The PPD of Sofina is around 8-10. There is no definite calculation for it since it is a japanese sunscreen that reads PA+++ (which is the highest for their PPD scale. I believe it is 10).

A PPD of 8+ is perfect for everyday wear (going to and from work, getting very, very little direct sun exposure). But if you are exposed for long periods of time and you have melasma, you may want to check out a stronger one either by Bioderma or La Roche Posay.

Its active ingredients are Zinc Oxide 13.87 nd 4% octinoxate. That is UVA/UVB protection right there.

Because it is SO matte, it is a sunscreen that is actually sweatproof, waterproof. Hence why you MUST use a cleansing oil to fully remove it. Sometimes makeup removing cold creams can work, followed by a regular foaming cleanser. I use a cleansing oil (anyone is fine. The market is filled with them, Sephora carries tons) then follow it up with a regular cleanser (to remove the oil).

Unfortunatley I do not exactly wear to purchase this IN stores IN Canada. I've looked in many places and couldn't find a store. I am sure some beauty/drugstores in a local China Town might carry it. The best place to get it is online:

bobodave.com does charge shipping like most online vendors, but it is very safe, secure and I get it from here.

and ebay.com is a great place to look. Bobodave is really good though

There is one SLIGHTLY similar here in Canada - the Shiseido SPF 50 Lotion (blue bottle). It is quite matte (not as matte as this though). I used to use that for a couple of years before I found this. I used to get it from Sephora.

<3; April 29, 2010 at 9:54 PM
Anonymous said...: Hi,
Thank you sooooooo much for providing me information about sofina i just need sunscreen for everday use for melasma acne prone skin . I start work at 8am until 3pm i drive only 20-25 mins each time i think sofina would be enough for me i used la roche posay for 5 years but even thogh i was wearing that sunscreen everday in morning rain or shine i still got pigmentation . I will give sofina a try since it has physical filter.; April 30, 2010 at 8:50 AM
Anonymous said...: Hi there!! I love your blog! i just discovered it and literally went through each post in the last few hrs!

Am hoping you can help with my problem.. here it goes ..

Am currently about Naomi Campbel shade and would like to lighten up to 1 shade up. At the most 2 shades. I have a few dark spots as a result of using Makari day cream. These are slowly fading due to my use of lemons every night. only at night..Makari, although very effective, clogged up my skin and caused acne. I switched to using Meladerm. Meladerm gave me serious irritation after using it twice a day for 5 days. So I stopped.

I previously tried ordering lightening agents from SkinActives.com. I added alpha arbutin to my Neutrogena moisturizer. I didnt see any visible differences. I was using it at about 4% arbutin.

So here's my question. Since I have stopped Makari, my skin tone has deepen further than my original shade. I will like to lighten it back up (again to just 1 - 2 shades). Makari worked very very well but it cost me my skin.

1. What percentage of arbutin should i be adding to my lotion to make it very effective?
2.Should i add other actives such as licorice extract, Niacinamide etc?? I did try to add these to my original potion. It didnt work. No lightening effect. Am I simply mixing the wrong things??
3.What lightening cream recipe has worked effectively for you?

I dont want to try any products. It has to be DIY. :-)

Thanks again for your wealth of info!!; April 30, 2010 at 9:46 AM
Anonymous said...: Hi Mileena

Thanks a ton for being so helpful and patient...

During PM i have to apply the AHA or 2% BHA , topped with makari followed by retin- A right?

During AM i use homemade vitC as the toner , followed by makari day cream and sun screen..so if i want to use PC BHA2% then i need to use BHA as toner instead of vitC right?

Excuse me for posing so many Q's but i have one more ....as far as my knowledge goes Retin-A AHA/BHA are all exfoliants so how is AHA/BHA different from Retin-A and if there is no difference what would we gain out of layering them?

Thanks; April 30, 2010 at 10:34 AM
Anonymous said...: Hi Mileena,

What do you think about skinceuticals Phloretin CF and C E Ferulic for melasma/acne type skin .If i incorporate one of these product in my regimen will i be getting any benefits toward lightning my melasma spot. If i will which one do think i should use. or i should look for any different kind of antioxidant for melasma/acne prone skin.; April 30, 2010 at 12:57 PM
Anonymous said...: Hi Mileena,

Do you apply retin a on your neck as well or no.I did apply retin a on my neck last week twice now my neck is really really icthy and dry any suggestion what can i use and for future should i apply retin a is normal or no.; April 30, 2010 at 1:07 PM
Mileena said...: Your welcome. Good luck with it. You're going to love it, I love it so much, lol. I think us oily skinned girls can only understand the joy of finding a product, let alone a sunscreen that matifies your skin and doesn't break you out.

It's a keeper. Just remember to pick up a cleansing oil (anyone will do) to remove it at night. You can look at My Regimen section up top to see my cleansing regimen.

<3; April 30, 2010 at 2:52 PM
Anonymous said...: Hi,

What do you think about fancl cleansing oil to remove sofina sunscreen and follow up with neutrogena fresh foaming cleaser as second step. I have acne prone skin or you would recommend any other good cleanser.
Thank you; April 30, 2010 at 8:28 PM
Randy said...: ahhh i still experience some shit here and there. uugghhhh!!!!! i thought 1 month was gonna be okay, then i knew it...!!!! i guess i still have initial breakout but only the minor ones. perhaps the bosses are already gone and there are some left slaves that can be squeezed in a week or 4 days yeah hahaha :D :D !!! but actually i need some help! in your opinion, should i continue using it for more time ahead or should i just stop it?? in my heart i really want to keep going, eventhough i only experience minor breakout -compared to the previous ones :)- i really want to stop!!!! AAAAGGGHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!! but cmon... ill try to be patient while at the same time trying to become patience (of dr.mileena :p) haha :D; May 1, 2010 at 4:21 AM
Mileena said...: That sounds perfect! I use the Fancl Cleansing oil as well. Plus the Neutrogena Fresh Foaming is good, not too drying but will remove the cleansing oil residue.

;); May 1, 2010 at 11:02 AM
Randy said...: hey i forgot where ive put my comment. my latest comment. geez! i guess it is here...

help!! i need some info about the initial breakout. will it last for only 1 month or more? ive been using retinoidd for 1 month and i do see something eventhough 1 or 3 pimples keep coming but theyre much milder than the previous ones. its like all the bosses are gone and the slaves remain...

btw... i feel like ive put my comment here... (???)> \(I.I)/; May 2, 2010 at 4:13 AM
Mileena said...: Purging from retinoid use lasts for about 2 weeks to a month. Usually never more than a month, but the pimples from it can last awhile.

If you are still getting *new* pimples forming then the pimples are coming from something else in your regimen, or from the retinoid cream version itself.

A BHA product can help zap them quicker. ;); May 2, 2010 at 10:20 AM
Randy said...: Well i keep using aspirin mask every week :) oh i see so the pimples left by retinoid could last for awhile... If that so its just like usual pimples!!! Ack.; May 2, 2010 at 6:32 PM
Mileena said...: Yes, just like regular pimples. However usually 2 weeks - 1 month is the norm for most people in terms of pimples fading. If new ones keep forming, then it's something in your regimen that is causing the breakouts.; May 2, 2010 at 7:37 PM
Jane said...: Nice tips keep up the good work; May 3, 2010 at 12:22 AM
Anonymous said...: Hi Mileena

I use retin-A cream with Makari night cream during PM and if i want to induce Paula's choice 2% BHA ..can i apply PC BHA first topped with Makari and retoind? ( that's what u advised in Bright Skin forum).

During AM i use homemade vitC as the toner , followed by makari day cream and sun screen..so if i want to use PC BHA2% then i need to use BHA as toner instead of vitC right?

Excuse me for posing so many Q's but i have one more ....as far as my knowledge goes Retin-A AHA/BHA are all exfoliants so how is AHA/BHA different from Retin-A and if there is no difference what would we gain out of layering them?

Thanks for being so kind and patient..you are godsend.; May 3, 2010 at 2:33 AM
Mileena said...: Thank you Jane. <3; May 3, 2010 at 11:32 AM
Mileena said...: Hi!

Yes, you're correct. Apply the PC 2% BHA first, apply Makari on top and the Retin-A cream last.

As for the BHA and vitamin c in the daytime, they CAN be used together during the day. But since they both have low pH's you can wait 20 minutes in between each application. So apply the BHA first, wait 20 minutes and apply the C on top and then sunscreen.

OR

you can do it like you mentioned. Use the BHA and sunscreen. Alternate between the Vitamin C (every other day). Vitamin C doesn't necessarily have to be used everyday. It says in the stratum corneum for up to 48 hours. So every other day application is good.

Yes AHA,s BHAs and retinoids are all exfoliants, however they all differ. AHA and BHA differ slightly and retinoids are the most different. AHA's exfoliate the epidermal layer (sloughing off dead skin cells, keratinocytes, flakes). BHA exfoliates within the pore, and out (so it works well at flushing out blackheads, trapped sebum etc.)

Retinoids are the most advanced. Specifically rx retinoids. They exfoliate from the inside out. They so slough off dead skin cells in the epidermal layer, but also start from deep within the lower layer of the skin at exfoliate up. The purging phase of retinoid usage is usually longer than AHA products. Retinoids also repair damaged DNA, help correct irregular keratinocyte/pore function (treat moderate to severe acne) and helps to prevent the signs of aging (more resilient, younger skin). It is the ultimate weapon for your skin aside from sunscreen and a good basic routine (gentle cleanser etc.)

;); May 3, 2010 at 12:21 PM
Anonymous said...: Hi Mileena

Thanks a ton for kindly answering all my Q's.

Do i need to wait 1/2 hour after my application of vit C to top with my Makari Day cream and Sunscreen? I remember reading this in your blog but i am not sure.

Thanks.; May 3, 2010 at 12:28 PM
Anonymous said...: Hi Mileena,

Can you pls let me know waht cleanser should i used right now i am using neutrogena fresh foaming fash and or neostrata oil free acne cleanser. I have been using retin a micro from 7 months still breaking out everyday 3-4 pimple everday looks like small white head.I also use obagi skin health sunscreen and vivite vibrance i started last month. Do you know what product is causing this acne could you kindly recommend good products for my acne prone skin should i stop retin a or continue. I recently order sofina sunscreen and fancl cleansing oil .Is there anything else i can use i losing my hope in retin a . Thank you; May 3, 2010 at 1:59 PM
Mileena said...: Hi,

15 minutes is fine enough. It's only so the next product (so in your case) the makari day cream is absorbed better since the skin's total pH does go down from 5 to around 2 or 3 from the vitamin c. it takes 15-30 minutes (in that time frame) for skin to rebalance it's pH.

=); May 3, 2010 at 2:28 PM
Mileena said...: Hi

It could be the obagi skin health sunscreen. Usually sunscreen is the culprit. It could be the Retin-A micro itself, many people react to that. I prefer Retin-A gel (or all it's generic names), Tazorac or Differin gel over any other rx retinoids.

But I think perhaps it's your sunscreen. Changing it to sofina may help. With the Fancl Cleansing Oil, you can use the Fresh Foaming cleanser afterwards (the oil-free acne wash can be too irritating to your skin, and further causing irritation/sebum production spike) to rinse off cleansing oil residue.

Did the breakouts start as soon as you began Retin-A micro and just carried on from there?

<333; May 3, 2010 at 2:34 PM
Anonymous said...: Hi,

My doctor prescribed retin a micro for my acne flare up 7 monts ago i did not have more purging as mentioned for first 2-4 wks but had acne pop up everday 2-3 now face is covered with scars . The retin a micro i use is gel as well. Is retin a gel different from micro.; May 3, 2010 at 4:15 PM
Anonymous said...: Hi,

Sorry i am going to ask silly question but i am realy impatient .Could you pls tell me how long does it take to deliever from hong kong to canada. I placed my order for sofina susnsrenn on bobodave online site you had recommended.Thank you angle; May 3, 2010 at 4:33 PM
Mileena said...: Slightly yes, Retin-A gel has very few ingredients besides alcohol and tretinoin. It is a basic tretinoin product and there is no risk of pore clogging or anything from it. That is the primary reason I recommend the gel versions of Retin-A, or Tazorac, or Differin.

If you were to be breaking out from the Retin-A Micro, you would have seen the adverse reactions by week 1 and onwards.

This leads me to believe it's something else in your regimen - perhaps the sunscreen? or the sunscreens you've been using thus far. The Sofina can definitley help, especially if you have oily skin and now that it's warm outside.

As far as the bobodave.com, I got my Sofina in 5 days. Shipping to Canada is 4-10 working days. That is usually standard for Hong Kong to here. Bobdave though is an excellent site, I really only trust that for asian lightening products (kose, sofina etc.).

I know how you feel, I am impatient a lot too when I am in the limbo process of jumping from one product to another. Perhaps discontinue use of the sunscreen (this also means you will have to stop using the Vivite or the Retin-A Micro) for the next 2-3 days. See how it goes, try to limit sun exposure as best as you can until you get the Sofina and perhaps during this time your skin can unclog.

<3; May 3, 2010 at 4:57 PM
Anonymous said...: Thank you so much . You are wonderful girl with so much knowledge . I love your blog i read every comment you had done .; May 3, 2010 at 6:48 PM
Mileena said...: !!!
Thank you so much! <333; May 3, 2010 at 6:57 PM
Anonymous said...: Hi,

Its me again , i just found out that retin a micro i've using for my acne is water based and alchol free gel. Do you this this could be the reason that i havn't seen any result on my acne because i read one of your blog you mentioned that alchol is good for acne prone skin because it let other ingridents pentrates in to skin better .Is that true do you think i should switch retin a micro gel to retin a gel or no. I am sorry to many questions i lost and you are my only hope.

Thank you and have good night; May 3, 2010 at 8:47 PM
Mileena said...: Hey,

don't apologize for asking questions - I love getting them and answering them. ;)

I think it's worth it switching to Retin-A gel. It seems all the other forms seem to give people trouble. Retin-A is simple and very effective.; May 4, 2010 at 9:43 AM
Anonymous said...: Hi,

What % should i be using for Retin A gel instead of Micro for my acne. I've using rein a micro .1% from last 7 monts and still getting breakouts everyday. If i get generic retin a gel will this work same as brand retil a gel.; May 4, 2010 at 10:17 AM
Mileena said...: Generic retin a (whatever it's called, Steiva- A, etc there are lots) is the same. Perfectly fine.

I would request 0.025% in strength. I use this strength and it works amazingly on me.; May 4, 2010 at 12:34 PM
Anonymous said...: Does your retin a get absorbed well in to skin when you applied . Mine Retin A micro(which i am going to change)does not get absorbed in to skin. I usally put small dots on all over my face still find that gel sitting on my skin and hard to message I am guessing may be this was problem and may that is why i am still getting acne everday . Last night i applied Replenix green tea serum over micro and that smoothed out micro and it absorbed in to my skin i did not notice any gel clumped togther around my Jaw. and this morning my skin looked little better. I would definetly get retin a gel i hope this will ovsorbed to skin without jugling.

Thank you; May 4, 2010 at 1:02 PM
Mileena said...: Yes, Retin-A gel is alcohol based so it does absorb exceptionally well. Really fast though.

So you make the micro dots, and quickly blend in since it absorbs in seconds. ;); May 4, 2010 at 4:06 PM
Anonymous said...: Hi,

Do you use Steiva- A gel or brand name.; May 4, 2010 at 5:13 PM
Anonymous said...: Hi,

I got prescripton for Retin A 0.25% gel from my doctor today . I will fill out tommarow . One last question you mentioned on different blog that Avene Diacneal is good for acne and you used that for yourself. Did you use that for acne did you had good result from that . What would me my best bet for acne Retin a 025% or Avene Diacneal .; May 4, 2010 at 5:50 PM
Mileena said...: I use Retin-A gel by Ortho Dermatological (original brand name).

The generic rx versions are the same thing, just as good just different names from different companies.; May 4, 2010 at 7:11 PM
Mileena said...: Hi!

Retin-A 0.025% is waaaay superior. Prescription retinoids are in a totally different league. Retin-A is what keeps me clear. I cannot live without it. It also helps me use certain products that I couldn't before because my pores are constantly being cleared. ;); May 6, 2010 at 8:23 PM

This Page

All About Skin Lightening

Tuesday, April 27, 2010

Be Extra Cautious With Melasma

44 Comments:

Post a Comment

About Me

Previous Posts