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How To Deal With Skin Darkening

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Wednesday, March 31, 2010

How To Deal With Skin Darkening

Photo Credit: Shopcrazy

Skin darkening is a really broad term. It goes hand in hand with Rebound Hyperpgimentation, but a lot of times skin darkening can occur from a particular product or lack of sun protection. Moreover it can be disappointing and confusing to the person experiencing it. I am going to try to give some tips and pointers to anyone who has experienced darkening or is currently experiencing skin darkening, on how to react and deal with it.

First of all, having your skin not only lose the results that you worked so hard to obtain, but actually go a couple of shades darker than your original skin tone is a pretty big emotional blow. I can imagine, for all of us who are on a skin lightening regimen. It's important for people to realize that rebound hyperpigmentation andskin darkening are different. Rebound hyperpigmentation is referring to localized legions, and is usually the result of stopping usage of a particular skin lightener or skin brightener, or not using adequate sunscreen protection (decent PPD levels of 8 or higher, applyng 1/4 teaspoon amount). Rebound hyperpigmentation is also very common with cytotoxic skin bleachers like hydroquinone and monobenzone.

Skin darkening can be many things. Generally it is described as the entire skin color going a shade or two darker after stopping usage of a particular skin lightener. Lack of sunscreen protection (daily - refer to Sunscreen Etiquette) plays a huge role as well. Skin darkening can occur from certain products as well.

Melanin is a defense mechanism for the skin. It protects the skin from UVB/UVA radiation and oxidative stress. When you apply skin lighteners, and topical antioxidants - they break down the process of melanin production. Sometimes (and this is usually rare) when skin lightening is done very rapdily (through potent products), melanin production can spike up in response to drastic change. Basically, what I am trying to get across is that skin lightening does work against the natural process of the skin. Even if the skin is heavily sun damaged and has irregular melanin production to begin with. Also, when rapidly lightening the skin, the skin can darken through inflammation as well. The inflammation sometimes doesn't even show up in the epidermal layers, but most of the time you can feel when your skin is irritated or inflammed (texture, appearence).

I've stated this several times, but I will always say it again. Sunscreen usage is incredibly vital for maintaining results and preventing skin darkening. A lot of times, people who are very sensitive and prone to darkening (meaning their skin actually goes darker than their original shade prior to lightening) can benefit from antioxidant + sunscreen usage during the day. So layering a Vitamin C or green tea extract product underneath your sunscreen can really even things out.

I wanted to also mention that skin darkening can be a direct result of skin lightening. I know that sounds weird, and this is very rare if you are using proper sunscreen usage and are maintaining usage of the skin lightener that gave you the results. When our skin goes several shades lighter, the defense of the skin is compromised. It is more sensitive to sun damage. The composition of the melanin load in the skin cells is different than what it was prior to getting 3 or 4 shades lighter. Practicing sun avoidance (when I say this, I mean limit the amount of sun exposure the best you can), using a sunscreen with good PPD (UVA protection) levels and continuing to use the skin lightener that gave you the results will prevent darkening.

I understand that the intial discovery of skin darkening can be really discouraging. I have never personally experienced it. I have at times returned to my original skin tone (albeit more even in tone, since acne marks and various sun damaged legions were permanentley treated) from stopping skin lightening.  Skin darkening can be prevented, it takes time, and understanding that maintenance products (sunscreen, possibly topical antioxidants if you are very prone to getting pigmentation) and using the skin lightener that gave you the results (if you are maintaing a particular skin shade, using it 3 times a week can be sufficient) are very important.

<3

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9 Comments:

Anonymous Anonymous said...

Hi Mileena,

What do you think of Skin Strengthening Complex by Nia 24 for melasma/acne prone skin. Currently i've using Vivite vibrance therapy at night and am i use green tea antioxidant underneath my la roceh posay 50+ sunscreen. I would like to interduced Skin Strengthening Complex by Nia 24 to my daily regimen do you think its good idea or not or this will give me acne and when should i use this morning or night . what would be best choice is safe for long term .
Thank you

April 1, 2010 at 12:15 PM  
Blogger Mileena said...

Hi!

I really do like the NIA 24 line, but I would recommend it to dry and normal skin tpes. If you aren't acne prone then I think it's worth it since it is a great Vitamin B3 product.

The Skin Strengthening Complex is designed mainly for barrier function strengthening (which helps acne to a degree by making skin less sensitive) and treating hyperpigmentatiom/uneven skin tone.

It can be used alongside with the Vivite, applied underneath. Wait at least 20 minutes (to allow the Nia 24 to absorb, and since it has the lowest pH of the two products, it should go first) before applying the Vivite sparingly on top.

The results of those two can be quite impressive. ;)

April 1, 2010 at 2:11 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Thank you,

Have you used Nia 24 products i do have acne prone skin. Can i use Skin Strengthening Complex by Nia 24 in morning if yes should i use underneath my antioxidant or after antioxidant . I also notice it has retinol will this be safe during the day .

April 1, 2010 at 2:48 PM  
Blogger Mileena said...

It's best to use it at night, because of the retinol content. It won't do anything in terms of darkening your skin, but the retinol will become useless when exposed heavily through sun exposure.

For an acne prone skin type, I would not recommend it. It seems to be geared towards drier skin types. You can add another niacinamide product in there like the Environ Evenescence Clarifying Lotion (niacinamide, sepiwhite) or Olay White Radiance (niacinamide, mulberry). ;)

April 1, 2010 at 4:06 PM  
Anonymous Met Tathione said...

Glutathione is an antioxidants that protect our cell from free radicals. And since are skin are made of cells, then this gives us a healthier skin.

April 3, 2010 at 10:50 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

hey mileena,
how are you? this blog is amazing. thank you so much for it. i have decided to get on a regiment and thanks to your inspiration stick with it this time. i had a question. i just got the environ evanescence and i notice that it is a clear liquid that is almost toner like, versus a creamy lotion. i put it on last night for the first time and then layered my retin a cream on it. it seemed ok but i think my skin was a little dry today, was wondering if i should layer it with something like cetaphil? my current regiment is....

am: wash body shop vit c, lancome neurowhite lotion( have you any reviews on this by the way) sunblock

home by midday i am home so i wash with c again
apply dhc vitamin c and gel, let it absorb and then apply paul and joe whitening serum. usaually stay in if i go out, i add sunblock and am umbrella.

pm: wash with c, apply kose mask, or clarins, or niacin, or vitamin c DIY, then phyto + witch i love by the way. wait 30 min and then add my retin a. what do you think of my regiment? using clinicians complex sunblock, once that is done i am trying sheseido. black skin by the way. so again should i add lotion to the environ because its not that creamy, or leave it as is?
thank you again for this blog. i have been on my regiment two weeks and i notice that the quality of my skin is improving. i read this blog to remind me of having patience. it took you five years hopefully it doesnt take me that long. i am trying some rec's just trying to get the best regiment together. please help. i also have the dr. elaine's but i dont know where to squeeze it in. i'll just have to wait. i was thinking of alternating nights with phyto + and environ then retin a, what do you think? you are amazing really, thank you so much. i am fighting some mild melasma on my forehead, so annoying. i am hoping this regiment will help that. thanks a million for all you do. i love this blog. i am here every day. thank you.

May 1, 2010 at 12:23 AM  
Blogger Mileena said...

Aw, thank you SO much for liking my blog. <333 I really appreciate it.

I totally know what you mean about the Environ. The consistency is like a toner. Not moisturizing at all. If you find your skin getting dry, you can always layer on top of it with a moisturizer or serum.

I've heard of the lancome neurowhite lotion. It seems very similar to the Vichy Bi White Double Reveal Whitening Essence that I use (ascorbyl glucoside + some botanical lightening extracts).

So you are currently using clinicians complex sunblock? Is that one zinc oxide based? If so you would like the Shiseido. Though the Shiseido does leave a small white cast. If your skin responds well with zinc oxide (no breakouts) you can always try the Devita SPF 30 (all physical ingredients). There is also the Elta MD SPF 46 with 5% niacinamide built in if you are looking for stronger protection, and semi-matte finish. This one might be better for you since you stated you have mild melasma on your forehead. The higher the PPD the better.

Alternating nights with the Dr. Elaine, phyto + and environ + retin-A sounds great to me.

Results take a while. But your regimen looks great. Consistency is key I find.

Good luck and keep me updated as you go along with this regimen.

=)

May 1, 2010 at 10:57 AM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

thank you mileena, so much.
that elta md spf 46 sounds good. do you know if that leaves a white caste? i love that its semi matte. i hate greasy sunblocks.im doing the niacin mask so i love that it has some in it.

May 3, 2010 at 4:14 PM  
Blogger Mileena said...

Hey!

That's awesome that you are doing the niacinamide masks. Are they doing any good? Niacinamide seems to be picking up a lot in skin care companies and such, I see more and more products with that ingredient in them. It's a good thing ;)

From what I know from reviews/comments and messages from readers the Elta MD SPF 46 doesn't leave a white cast, much like the Sofina. It's not as matte as the Sofina (which is really matifying, almost oil-controlling) but it wears wonderfully, and has some great ingredients. And yes it has a high percentage of niacinamide which is awesome. =D

May 3, 2010 at 5:01 PM  

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