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Product Recommendation: NIA 24

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Wednesday, January 6, 2010

Product Recommendation: NIA 24


Wow, I cannot believe I didn't learn about these products until now! I've been looking into niacinamide more and more lately, because I'm just enthralled by how beneficial this ingredient is. Skin lightening and hyperpigmentation aside, niacinamide just flat out rocks in terms of skin benefits, like repairing barrier function (so skin isn't as sensitive to redness or sudden breakouts), stimulation of collagen and reversal of sun damage.

The NIA24 line came to my attention from searching for niacinamide products above 3%, and I found it won an editor's award for best skin treatment. According to studies, to get the skin lightening effect of niacinamide (and others) it has to be 5%. For awhile there I kind of gave up, and settled on the Neutrogena Fine Fairness Mask as the only half decent niacinamide product (aside from homemade, DIY niacinamide mask, which is great but I don't know if I ever really get the pH right and formulation down right). The NIA24 product range proves me wrong.

EDIT: I want to make a correction. The NIA 24 products contain nicotonic acid - which is a very effective, water soluble form of Vitamin B3. The niacin molecule has all the benefits of niacinamide, and NIA 24 is actually the very first nicotonic acid based skin care line.

Their motto is 'Niacin-Powered Skin Therapy'. All of their products contain high, pH balanced, effective concentrations of nicotonic acid  (star ingredient in all their products). To be specific, their products contain 5% nicotonic acid  (this just awesome, they patent it by listing it as Pro-Niactin).  If you check out their official website, you will find tons of research articles and links to studies that go even further than the information I provided in my Benefits of Niacinamide post. Really good stuff, it's worth the read IMO.

The two products that stick out the most to me are the NIA24 Skin Strengthening Complex (5% nicotonic acid , ceramides (barrier restoration), Dermaxyl Peptide Complex (copper peptide), green tea (mild antioxidant). Another great product is the NIA24 Intensive Recovery Complex (5% nicotonic acid niacinamide, licorice extract (skin lightener), Ceramide, Liposome (antioxidant complex), and other inactives that contribute to reduction of water loss (water loss in the skin causes dryness, which leads to more oil production, which in turn means breakouts).

Both of these products impress me. The positive reviews I've read also help a lot in my decision to make the NIA24 line a recommendation on my blog. Obviously just by looking at the ingredients, you can see that the Intensive Recovery Complex is targeted more towards sun damage/skin lightening/hyperpigmentation, however the Skin Strengthening Complex also has melanin suppressing abilities.

The Skin Strengthening Complex also features 0.5% retinyl palmitate,  which is an ester version of Vitamin A. It is not pure tretinoin (retinoic acid) but it can work to a very small extent at cell turnover regulation.

Niacinamide is very powerful, and skin lightening can be seen in about the 4th week of usage (according to studies and reviews). Full results will take up to 12 weeks, but they are definitley possible with this. It's also not only the skin lightening, and radiance people noticed - many people with eczema saw dramatic improvement since niacinamide treats that as well.

The entire NIA24 product range is designed for drier skin types, however niacinamide is acne fighting on it's own (especially at 5%) as well as a skin lightener. These products can be used day or night, and are ideal for anyone with sun damage, dark spots, acne marks, hyperpigmentation or have uneven skin color (darker skin on their face and neck, than the rest of their body).

The official NIA24 site recommends using a dime sized amount on your face and use sparingly. The first application causes a flush in the skin (I experienced a flush when I use my homemade niacinamide mask) which goes away quickly. Remember, this is a high, very effective concentration of niacinamide.

I would probably advise very sensitive skin types to avoid this only because it isn't oil-free. I can argue that it can actually benefit sensitive skin types in the long run by making skin less sensitive and can help with acne, but everyone's skin reacts differently. I'm pretty sure I could use the Intensive Recovery Complex (my barrier function is quite strong from years of retinoid, L-ascorbic acid and sunscreen use). Dry, normal and combination skin types will really like and benefit from these two NIA24 products. Sensitive skin types can get the eye repair cream which also contains high niacinamide (and has gotten amazing reviews), so if you are experiencing any fine lines, or want to lighten up your eyes, check that one out.

The NIA24 Intensive Recovery Complex is expensive, it runs for $100.00 for a 1.7 oz (50ml) jar and the Skin Strengthening Complex goes for $85.00 for a 50ml tube.

If you aren't interested in purchasing, I still suggest taking a look at the official site and seeing all the research they have. It's impressive, well to me it is, LMAO.

NIA 24 Intensive Recovery Complex
Ingredients:
Water, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Myristyl Nicotinate (Pro-Niacin™), Glycerin, Pentaerythrityl Tetracaprylate/Tetracaprate, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), C12-20 Acid PEG-8 Ester, Butylene Glycol, Glyceryl Stearate, Squalane (olive derived), Ethylene/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Dimethicone, Tribehenin, Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, Mangifera Indica (Mango) Seed Butter, Ceramide 2, PEG-10 Rapeseed Sterol, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Saccharide Isomerate, Isohexadecane, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hexyldecanol, Ceramide 3, Hydrolyzed Wheat Gluten, Ceratonia Siliqua (Locust Bean) Gum, Hordeum Distichon (Barley) Extract, Lycopersicum (Tomato) Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Extract, Saccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract, Cola Nitida Seed Extract, Paullinia Cupana Seed Extract, Ilex Paraguariensis Leaf Extract, Bisabolol, Phospholipids, Tocopheryl Acetate, Retinyl Palmitate, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Polysorbate 80, Myristica Fragrans (Nutmeg) Kernel Extract *, Xanthan Gum, BHT, Chlorphenesin, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Propylparaben

NIA 24 Skin Strengthening Complex
Ingredients:
Water (Aqua, Eau), Myristyl Nicotinate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil, Cyclomethicone, Squalane, Butylene Glycol, Dimethicone, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Glyceryl Stearate SE, Cetyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil, Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Oil, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract, Ranunculus Ficaria Extract, Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract, Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Seed Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Myristica Fragrans (Nutmeg) Kernel Extract, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Retinyl Palmitate, Tocopherol, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Ceramide 2, PEG-10 Rapeseed Sterol, Phospholipids, Ceramide 3, Dimethicone Crosspolymer-3, Tribehenin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Polysorbate 60, Laureth-7, Maltol, 1,5,5,9-Tetramethyl-13-Oxatricyclotridecane, PEG-8, Methyldihydrojasmonate, Polyacrylamide, Oxacyclohexadecen-2-one, BHT, Diazolidinyl Urea, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate.

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4 Comments:

Anonymous D said...

I love their Skin Restoration Complex, a perfect product to use when you're using exfoliators like acids and retinoids that thin out the epidermis.

Have you tried the Olay Regenerist line? All products in that line have a 4% concentration of niacinamide...

January 7, 2010 at 1:57 PM  
Blogger Mileena said...

No I haven't tried the Olay Regenerist Line. Their daily regenerating serum looks good, probably a great, less expensive alternative to the NIA 24 I can imagine.

I've tried the Olay Definity awhile ago, and didn't like it all. That one actually has a good skin lightening combo of glucosamine + niacinamide (3%) but I didn't see any results (I'm guessing the glucosamine content was very low, and 3% niacinamide only can do so much in terms of melanin reduction). I was pretty disappointed with the Definity but the Regenerist line looks awesome.

=D

January 7, 2010 at 4:09 PM  
Anonymous D said...

Yeah the definity line is pretty bad but Regenerist is a real winner. The serum is fantastic just make sure to buy the fragrance free one as there are 2 versions. They also, if memory serves, have a regenerist SPF 50+ with a decent ppd but I think that's a US exclusive.

The peptides plus niacinamide in Regenerist are great at restoring the skin barrier if, and I think you do, you use retinoids or any other exfoliants. Retinoids thin the skin surface substantially (while thickening the layers underneath) so it's important to thicken that out layer as much as possible to reduce the risk of increased sun damage and rebound pigmentation.

January 7, 2010 at 9:34 PM  
Blogger Mileena said...

Thanks for the tips D.

My skin barrier function is quite resilient right now but I have been interested in putting in niacinamide or maybe even a B5 gel which both can further enhance the integrity of my skin.

January 8, 2010 at 2:02 AM  

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