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Featured Ingredient: N-Acetyl Glucosamine

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Wednesday, March 17, 2010

Featured Ingredient: N-Acetyl Glucosamine

A study conduced in 2006 by P&G Beauty showed that the combination of n-acetyl glucosamine and niacinamide synergistically treat hyperpigmentation, dark spots and uneven skin tones in UV damaged skin cells. Prior to this study, n-acetyl glucosamine was not even considered as a skin lightening ingredient in cosmetics. Fast foward to now, glucosamine is now marketed as a anti-discoloration/anti-hyperpigmentation holy grail in skin brightening products.

Even without the prescence of niacinamide, n-acetyl glucosamine at 2% showed decrease melanocyte activity and gave profound radiance. Most derms would probably agree though, that skin lightening is best achieved by attacking the pigmentation process which has many aspects. Combinations is one of them, since various skin lightening ingredients inhibit different parts of the pigmentation process. Niacinamide inhibts melanin transfer and assimilation into other cells, while n-acetyl glucosamine inhibits the enzyme tyrosinase. You can imagine together they work much more efficiently than on their own.

To achieve significant skin lightening and overall radiance, n-acetyl glucosamine should be at 2%. Patients in the clinical study began seeing results at around week 5 with the aid of a penetration enhancer (an AHA or retinoid of some sort in their regimen).

Interesting Articles/Studies to read:

Reduction in the appearance of facial hyperpigmentation by topical N-acetyl glucosamine

Science finds new fix for UV-damaged skin

P&G Glucosamine Complex Study

Skin lightening preparations and the hydroquinone controversy.

Recommended products that contain n-acetyl glucosamine:

Olay Definity Self Repair Serum <--- from what I can draw from the reviews/comments I've read about this, I am sure it is more of a skin brightening product. Or a radiance product. I am disappointed in the Olay Definity range, since it has the ability to be a very potent, distinctive skin lightening range however ends up being a very mild anti-aging/skin radiance one. I've never tried the serum, but since niacinamide and n-acetyl glucosamine are the 4th and 5th ingredients on the list, I am going to recommend this serum out of their range.

If I do find another product with n-acetyl glucosamine I will definitley recommend in here. For now, this repair serum will do.

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