All About Skin Lightening: Skin Lightening Consultations

Thursday, March 4, 2010

Skin Lightening Consultations

I have a week off to study for midterm exams. Yay! Now being the type A personality, and insane person that I am - I've done most of my studying this week. So...that leaves me a whole week to work on the blog and do some things I have planned for it.

I'm going to be doing (free, ofcourse) skin lightening consultations to anyone who is interested. Obviously this is going to be online, but I want anybody who is reading this to know that I am always available if you need advice or help in skin lightening or any pigmentation issue (melasma, acne marks, freckles). Now I'm not a dermatologist but I feel that the research that I've done, and the experience that I have is good enough to at least give some input and sound tips to people who need help building a skin lightening regimen or are at a plateau and don't know what to use.

A lot of times (and this is in no way attacking dermatologists) derms don't take skin lightening seriously. Ofcourse they know all about melanocyte activity and all the various irregularities that come from it. But very few of them have the experience or the interest in lightening overall complexions - not just dark spots and freckles.

Actually what really prompted this was an e-mail I recieved this morning. (I love getting e-mails about skin lightening from all of you. It's fun and I love exchanging and interacting and helping any way I can. Even if my advice is not something you take to heart, it is great to 'meet' other people who have common goals and interests, and are looking to get their dream skin tone). In the e-mail, a reader of mine told me that she went to her dermatologist to ask to find a product to help lighten the color of her face to match her body (which was lighter). The derm actually laughed and didn't take her request seriously. Instead he just prescribed (and while reading this, I rolled my eyes and said out loud, "how typical!") her a hydroquinone based cream.

Experiences like that shock me. In any professional setting, no one should make light of anybody's requests or desires. That derm clearly was not educated enough to even offer her a natural alternative. He did what most derms do, and gave a skin bleaching cream with hydroquinone and very little advice aside from, "use sunscreen everyday".

Bleh.

Anyway, I want to try my best to help anybody who wants to build the right regimen, find products best suited for them, and just own their skin lightening. Be in control of it, and know that hydroquinone skin bleaching creams and and same ol' same ol' crap that comes out of many dermatologists is not all what skin lightening is about. Trust me, once you start seeing results (that take time to show) it is a great feeling. It's awesome, and I want to share and let others experience it.

In order for me to best help anybody who is willing to participate, I have a few guidelines or things I need to know before I actually help you build a proper skin lightening or skin brightening (whatever is your goal or concern) regimen This topics should be covered in the inital comment or e-mail you set out:

I need to know your skin lightening goal (what exactly you wish to achieve, or shade you would like to get to - because as I've mentioned in Motivation & Skin Lightening - this is where it all begins and this is what sets you up for getting actual skin lightening results or utter failure)
I need to know what products you are using now
I need to know what products you have used in the past, but did not work or gave you adverse effects (breakouts, irritation, or no lightening)
I need to know what products you have used in the past, and actually saw some visible improvement
*Optional* if you are suffering from acne, I would like to know your basic skin care routine. I am going to say now, that I am refraining from giving advice on making a regular or basic skin care regimen. Even though I love writing and researching about skin care in general - this is a skin lightening blog and I don't really specialize in finding basic moisturizers or cleansers and such. But I am willing to help if you are looking for some advice and you are lost in this craziness that is known as a proper skin regimen.

And that's about it. These consultations can be done here, right in the comment section below. We can have back and forth exchanges or if you want to e-mail me you can contact me at my e-mail address (check my Contact page for information in getting in contact with me). If I don't respond right away, don't think I am ignorning you. I will try my best to get back to you the same day you message me.

For the people who have e-mailed me in the past about advice or questions, I am in the process right now of following up with all of you. Check your e-mails. I really mean it when I say I want to get updates from you all because not only does it make me happy to see other people getting results in skin lightening, but if a certain products works or you have a recommendation for me - it ends up on this blog which is ultimately about helping others.

Thank you everybody who reads and comments. I appreciate every one of you and it really does make this whole blogging experience worth it. <333 Skin lightening no longer is just about my goals or presenting information anymore. It's about helping a real community of people - whether you just randomly found my blog searching, or are from Bright Skin or the SCT. I look foward to talking to you all. =D

Mileena

Labels: skin lightening

40 Comments:

Anonymous said...: Hi Mileena,

I would like to try paula's choice BHA solution for my acne . could pls tell me where can i purchase in canada or any trusted online site that i can purchase so i don't have to pay duites and stuff and is good for adult acne i get every day small white pimple just look like white head and i do use retin a micro for over 4 months. Thank you; March 5, 2010 at 10:12 AM
Mileena said...: Hi,

I really do like the Paula's Choice 2% BHA Liquid. It does clear out pores, it's probably one of the best BHA products out there since it has the right pH, so complete absorption is done when using it.

Though I will say that it did leave me a bit shiny, but that's normal since BHA is a lipid soluble acid so, there needs to be some emollient ingredient in there have a more cosmetically elegant product.

Unforutnately I just searched for the link that I usually used to purchase my PC product and apparently that distributor has discontinued supply Paula's Choice products - Doubleday Canada. That totally sucks. Ugh.

You can try ebay. I'm going to keep looking today online for some reliable distributors that from Canada that hold PC products.

If I can't find any, there is one another alternative. Neostrata (awesome company, sold at Shoppers Drug Mart) makes a really good BHA/AHA product combination targeted for whiteheads and all types of acne. Here is the link:

http://www.neostrata.ca/products/-category/acne-care/blemish-spot-gel/53/

The ingredients and all seem impressive, so that can be a valid alternative to the PC 2% BHA Liquid if I can't find. Keep checking back, I'll post a comment here to a link if I find one. ;); March 5, 2010 at 1:04 PM
Mileena said...: Alright, so you can order it from the official website for Canada:

http://www.cosmeticscop.com/help-canada-shipping.aspx

Here is the link tot he 2% BHA Liquid

http://www.paulaschoice.com/product/two-percent-beta-hydroxy-acid-liquid/bha-aha-exfoliants

It takes about 3-7 days to ship.
=); March 5, 2010 at 1:31 PM
Anonymous said...: Hi Mileena,

Thank you for site i just want to ask that i use rein a at every night can i still use this with retin a at night and i am going to use vivite vibrance therapy at night as well for my melasma how can i use these products in right effective order and in the morning i use Vichy bi white and sunscreen can i use this product in morning too. I really have to try this product since you like this product so much . My acne are not improving with retin a but i do not want to give on that i overall liking the effect of retin a .; March 5, 2010 at 1:49 PM
Mileena said...: Hi.

What sunscreen do you use? A lot of times sunscreen can be hit or miss for sensitive or acne prone skin types. Right off the bat I can suggest a few good ones, solely based on their ingredients: Aveeno ultra calming SPF 30 (great product) and Elta MD Clear SPF 45. Two great sunscreens.

Your acne is not improving with Retin-A...which strength of Retin-A are you using? Is it the gel or cream version?

You may want to introduce a BHA product or even a weekly clay mask to help clear up excess sebum and keratin from your pores. Since Retin-A makes skin flaky/peely you need something to slough that off gently.

If you live in the US, the Queen helene Mint Julep Mask is great. Also maybe introduce a BHA product in there like Paula's Choice 2% BHA Liquid, or for a cheaper alternative Stridex Pads. You can use it after cleansing to get effective salicylic acid in your pores.

=); March 5, 2010 at 2:14 PM
Mileena said...: Use the vivite vibrance therapy first. wait 15-30 minutes to allow for absorption and complete ph neutralization of your skin. Apply Retin-A gel sparingly on top.; March 5, 2010 at 2:15 PM
Anonymous said...: Hi Mileena (fellow nursing student!!lol),
First of all your site rocks!!

I have a question: I have oily/sensitive skin and I've had acne since I was 14. I tried to control it with otc products and then recently I finally got tired of it and went to a dermatologist because I also have some frackles on my face that I got from years of tanning and I wanted to take care of that as well.

So my goal was to get rid of the acne and get rid of the sun spots.

This is my regimen as of right now:

AM: wash face with Cetaphil + Cetaphil mosturizer. Apply makeup and go about my day.

PM: wash face with Cetaphil + Cetaphil mosturizer+ Tozarac 0.05%. I apply Finacea on my sun spots. Go to bed (lol)

I just started doing that a week ago, so I haven't seen any major results. Tazorac seems to be working though. But now that I'm reading all the great info you posted about skin lightning I feel like I want to do MORE to see better results!

Anything else that you think would be specifically beneficial for me? I'm getting the Shiseido sunscreen. Do you think a Vitamin C serum would be too aggresive (acne med is making me peel)??

Any other tips??

Thank you SO much.

<3; March 5, 2010 at 10:58 PM
Mileena said...: Hi!

Another nursing student? YAY! lol

When you have oily skin, moisturizer isn't always an a necessity. This is something I've learned over the years and has really helped with clearing of my acne. You only apply moisturizer to areas that feel dry. If your whole face feels tight and dry, then apply lightly all over. For me it's usually just my chin and cheeks. This may help with some of the oiliness, since all moisturizers just try to mimick sebum (lubricate the skin), so if you already produce enough of it, it's not always a necessity.

Anyway, right off the bat I can tell you that you need a sunscreen in your regimen. Maybe replace the Cetaphil in the daytime to the Aveeno Ultra Calming SPF 30 (which is very gentle yet still mildy hydrating, and most importantly has sunscreen in i and can easily be removed with cetaphilt). Without sunscreen, you can be using the best products in the world and it will be futile since skin is constantly being sun damaged.

Your regimen seems pretty solid. Like you stated, it's only been a week and any visible skin lightening results show up by week 4 or 6 (generally week 6 for most people).
Though I will say you can maybe add a very mild antioxidant in there. Since your are in the beginning stages of retinoid use (tazorac) as well as finacea which are both very effective yet very strong products - it's best to take it easy. To add some radiance, and some skin brightening you can use the DHC Acerola 100 (which I love btw. It's so gentle on my skin) as a topical antioxidant used during the day. Many people get benefits from it, fading of dark spots. It's a mild antioxidant that uses the Vitamin C from Acerola, but it is very effective at brightening my skin and giving that extra glow to your routine. It's a good way to segway into stronger L-ascorbic acid based vitamin c serums.

So your regimen can look like this:

AM:
Cleanse with Cetaphil
Apply DHC Acerola 100
*wait about 5 minutes since DHC's pH level is moderate*
Apply Aveeno Ultra Calming SPF 30 or any sunscreen that you have/use.

PM:
Cleanse with Cetaphil
Finacea gel on spots
Apply moisturizer
Apply Tazorac

No waiting in the night time regime since Finacea is only going on the sun spots, and cetaphil (bland moisturizer) and Tazorac can be applied on top of that without any risk of irritation.

Good luck
Keep me updated. Would love to hear how things are going by week 6.

Mileena ;); March 6, 2010 at 9:47 AM
Anonymous said...: Thanks, hun!! I will let you know and maybe send you some before and after pics!! You're really sweet.
Thanks again!!
:); March 6, 2010 at 8:54 PM
Anonymous said...: I have fairly light skin, and feckles. I had a baby about a year ago, and now have some melasma on cheeks, and nose... I have been diagnosed by a dermatologist - ( a few actually) who all offer a short treatment of depigmentation creams that contain small amounts (5% about) of hydroquinone. I have already done some mandelic, and glycolic peels and see immediate results with them - but they will not, it seems, eliminate the melasma (this is what i have been told). I have always had freckles... and do not want to get rid of them... just want to clear my skin from the light brown melasma patches. I have also been told that light pulsation would do the trick.. but i am scared of it. I should also add that I live in Ecuador, Quito, where the sun is just about as strong as it gets, and although i bathe myself (and my one and a half year old daughter!) in sunscreen every couple of hours... the sun is just impossible. So i try and avoid it, and cover up as much as i can. I would like to know what you would recommend in terms of peels, and natural products that would lighten my skin with no risk (of cancer for example). Is it true that hydroquinone in small amounts, and for 1-3 months is non risky? Also what do you think of light pulsations (is there enough research on something like that yet?)... and finally... i just need advice on how to go about all this.... basically to summarize everything i have said: I have been doing peels (mandelic and glycolic - done by a dermatologist), and using white objectives day and night cream at home... plus sunblock... (Umbrella organic spray, bioderma 5O+ lightly tinted, Suncare, and right now i have switched to Eucerin 50+)what else should or can i do? Or is this ok for now... will i say definitive results? Also, I just saw that Isis pharma makes a glycolic cream and a skin lightener for the day (Unitone SPF 20) ... what do you think of these products in comparison to Bioderma? I was thinking of using the glycolic cream they make, once in a while... .sorry for all these questions, and thank you so much for caring about this stuff that seems futile to most!; March 10, 2010 at 1:23 PM
Mileena said...: Hi!

After having children, it is so common to get melasma. You are not alone in dealing with this at all.

Hydroquinone applied in small amounts (on the melasma patches themselves, not surrounding skin), and for 1-3 months does not pose any health risks. It's actually once your reach past the 6 month mark that the use of HQ becomes risky since most studies involving it are done in a 6 month period. Anything above that is unknown to the health. So it's best to stop once the 6 month mark hits. HQ is actually quite effective at treating melasma patches. I have a question though - do the hydroquinone depigmenting creams your derm prescribed contain any alpha hydroxy acids in them (glycolic acid, lactic acid?). If so, then that is great since AHAs act as a penetration enhancer of the HQ.

IPL (pulsed light therapy) does work. It can break up the pigment that is causing the melasma and it's best for caucasian skin types (fair to very pale). The only time there is risk of rebound pigmentation is if the person's skintone is dark, in which a derm or professional would never perform it on since they already know skin tones with more melanin are more prone to melanin related problems.

Looking at the products you mentioned you seem to be on the right track. The Eucerin 50+ has a decent PPD rating which is very important when treating melasma. I know it's hard since you live in Ecuador, which is quite sunny all the time. But at least you are using sunscreen on an everyday basis so that is great. You also mentioned that you've seen immediate results with the glycolic/mandelic acid peels done by the dermatologist. That is usually very common - particularily with malic or mandelic acid which work well for melasma. I'm not sure if it can be shipped (haven't checked, but I'm sure it can) but the M2 Refinish seems to be working well with people that have melasma and have messaged me. It comes in 2 strengths, 20% and 12%. 12% is usually best tolerated. You need something that constantly renews/exfoliates your skin everyday.

The M2 Refinish can be worn underneath the Bioderma White Objective Night.

Don't waste your money on the Unitone SPF 20, poor sunscreen and product.

There is also an internal issue with melasma. I've read studies that high copper levels can worsen the condition. You can always check with your doctor, or take a zinc supplement (25 mg) to offset that.

So to summarize everything, there 2 things you can do:

- if you can get a hold of the M2 Refinish or any leave-on AHA product then you can use that at night underneath your White Objective Night product.

- you can also sparingly apply the HQ creams on the melasma patches themselves, then layer the M2 Refinish on top andBioderma White Objective Night at the end.

Everything else you are doing is great - sunscreen etc.

Melasma takes time to fade, more time than most pigmentation issues. Sometimes upwards to about 8-12 months. But stick with this regimen iot will hopefully work.

Good luck
Mileena
<333; March 10, 2010 at 7:43 PM
Anonymous said...: what is the best way to get rid of old tan? my legs and arms are atleast 3 shades darker than my torso an my feet are even darker than that. pls suggest a way to reduce my tan.; March 14, 2010 at 12:19 PM
Mileena said...: Hi!

Combination approach is the best way to remove a stubborn, deep set tan.

Combination = exfoliating, protecting and treating the area.

For your exfoliation you can use a body scrub, or a lightening soap like Dermaline's Kojic Acid Papaya Soap. You can use a luffa or exfoliating glove with it for manual exfoliation.

For protection, keep those areas protected from the sun. If they are going to be exposed, wear sunscreen.

For treatment, you need to build a regimen with lightening ingredients that target inhibiting the enzyme that creates melanin (kojic acid, licorice extract, arbutin, tranexamic acid, check featured ingredients label on the right side of my blog to find out how each ingredient lightens skin), and an ingredient that disrupts melanin transfer and assimilation into other cells (bearberry extract, paper mulberry, gigawhite, L-ascorbic acid (vitamin c) .

That can be in the form of one product or a host of them - such as a vitamin c serum during the daytime (skinceuticals aox 10 or 20) and another product that lightens by melanin enzyme inhibition - so Makari Body Beautifying Milk or the Dr. Michelle Copeland AHA Body Smoothing Creme with Kojic Acid.

;); March 14, 2010 at 3:00 PM
Anonymous said...: Hi Mileena

I have just begun skin lightening for the past 2 months (which is not long i know). I have a lot of freckles and melasma just from being quite fair and sitting in the sun as a child.
Although my background is Mediterranean i do not have an olive complexion, I am blonde with average fair skin.
I have been using Paula's Choice AHA and BHA for years along with her antioxident concentrate serum but have not had great results in terms of fading my freckles. I recently went to a dermatologist that put me onto HQ. I have noticed a huge difference but i know HQ can only be used for 6 months so I wanted some advise on how to continue skin whitening after i come off the HQ.

This is my skin regime:
AM Cleanser Paula's Choice cleanser, vitamin C serum from ASAP or Paula's antioxident concentrate - sunscreen Avene 30+ plus invisible zinc(tinted sunscreen Australian brand) combined together

PM Cleanse with Paula's choice cleanser or ASAP scrub then alternate between Paula's Choice 2% Liquid BHA or HQ

Any advise you could give me would be great in terms of fading my freckles - my goal is to have an even complexion without marks, freckles or acne scars. I don't mind so much the shade of my skin more the imperfections i would like an even skin tone. I have read your blog a lot and don't recognise a lot of the products you suggest are they mainly purchased on line?

Thanks for your help and thank you for your great advise i really appreciate it.; March 31, 2010 at 6:24 PM
Mileena said...: Hi!

Yes, mainly the products I suggest are purchased online. I do most of my skin lightening shopping online, since my local drugstores and department stores only carry a very limited amount of decent products.

You can apply the hydroquinone on the acne marks and freckled areas for the total 6 months. I just advise against using it all over. So, basically spot treating with the HQ is fine, and you mentioned it was giving you results.

But if you want an all natural alternative, I would suggest the Skinceuticals Phyto +. I love this serum, it has kojic acid, arbutin and bearberry extract. It is very lightweight, good for sensitive skin types and really does work (for me it does). For freckles and and dark spots, applying twice a day application on those localized regions really does help. For the rest of your skin tone, you can apply it all over once a day (at night).

It definitley works at achieving a uniform skin tone. You gotta be patient with it, as the results aren't as rapid as HQ though, but they are apparent.

The Skinceuticals Phyto+ is ordered online however. I hope that isn't a problem for you, since many of the really good products usually aren't sold in stores.

If that isn't possible right now, you can continue to use the HQ at night, on the specific darker areas (acne marks, freckles, blotches) and be diligent with the sunscreen during the day. It takes time, but I find the evenness of my skin to come from sunscreen and time.

Good luck and keep me updated
Mileena <3; March 31, 2010 at 6:48 PM
Anonymous said...: Hi
I want to know how to make my body skin fair. I already used monobenzone on my legs and got good results but i stopped that knowing its illeffect. I use vichy biowhite in day followed by sunscreen and in nite paul and joe serum. This products are to costly to be used on other body parts please suggest as i want to lighten my genetic skin colour.
Second thing i wanna know do carrot seed oil have anything to with skin lightining
And 3rd how efficient are aroma essential oils in lightining. I am sorry for asking so many questions.hope ur reply soon; May 5, 2010 at 4:06 PM
Mileena said...: Hi Nitesh!

You're right in that 'regular' sized products like Vichy Bi White and Paul & Joe's Whitening Serum are just not economical for body lightening.

I usually recommend a combination approach for body lightening. Basically, gently exfoliating your body regularily (minimum of 3 x a week. I exfoliate everyday on my body). You can use a skin lightening soap (like from Diane Stadler - the Papaya Kojic acid soap) OR use any body wash/soap and exfoliate with a luffa or exfoliating gloves found in drugstores and body/beauty shops.

As far as lightening cream, I think the Makari Body Beautifying Milk is excellent. If you cannot get a hold of that product I would recommend an AHA based lotion like Dr. Michelle Copeland AHA Body Smoothing Lotion or the DDF Glycolic Body Lotion 10%.

I don't really like using essential oils like carrot seed oil as lighteners. While I've heard/read about the skin lightening benefits of carrot seed oil (fading age spots, dark spots, uneven complexion), it has to be at a high percentage. High percentages of essential oils (or even thick application of them) can result in pore clogging and many other problems like breakouts etc.

I prefer botanical extracts over essential oils in lightening. :); May 5, 2010 at 6:10 PM
Anonymous said...: First of all, I would like to congratulate for your website. It is very useful for me.

I am a 30 year old female. My face and forearm are 3-4 shades darker than my body. I have oily and very sensitive skin and I am suffering from seborrheic dermatitis. I tried papaya soap, extrapone nutgrass, Sure White bleaching cream, Palmer's Eventone Fade cream but they did not work for me. My skin produced more oil, turned red and burned a lot due to them.

What should I use to lighten my skin?

Thank you.; May 13, 2010 at 12:05 PM
Mileena said...: Having seborrheic dermatitis makes skin lightening a little more tricky. Since everything has to be done gently, it's best not use very potent skin lighteners like Sure White or the Palmer's Eventone Fade Cream which isn't very good.

Instead I would recommend gentle lighteners, and good sunscreen. Do you use sunscreen daily? It's so important to use it since it can prevent darkening, what you can do is use a sunscreen with physical ingredients instead of chemical ingredients which may flare up irritation in your skin. The Devita SPF 30 is a good one.

If you're main concern with sunscreen is the greasiness, then I suggest getting something that is hydrating/calming but at the same time not very greasy. The Elta MD SPF 46 is great for this. It has niacinamide which strengthens skin barrier function (allows the skin to be able to tolerate other ingredients and prevents redness). It is semi-matte in finish.

I have oily skin as well as use the Sofina UV Perfect. It is amazingly matte, but requires a cleansing oil to remove since it is SO matte and sweatproof/waterproof.

As far as lighteners I would say look for a botanical based lightener like Skinceuticals Phyto + (I love this one, very mild yet effective). You should keep with exfoliation as well, you can use the an exfoliating product like AmLactin on your forearms (has lactic acid, can be found at walgreens). For your face, gently exfoliate a few times a week either with whatever scrub you already use or a gentle at-home treatment like the Makeupartistchoice Pumpkin Exfoliating Masque (5% glycolic acid) found makeupartistschoice.com

In the daytime underneath your sunscreen, a mild vitamin c product like DHC Acerola 100 would be perfect for brightening/collagen building.

These products are good for your skin type. So to summarize here is how it will look:

AM:
Cleanse (use a gentle cleanser)
DHC Acerola 100
Elta MD UV Clear SPF 46
*wait 10 minutes for sunscreen to form protective coating*
Apply makeup

PM:
Cleanse to remove AM products
Apply skinceuticals phyto +

Two times a week use the Makeupartistschoice pumpking exfoliating masque on your face and the Amlactin (a leave on body lotion that has lactic acid in it) on your forearms daily. Make sure to protect the skin on your forearms with a sunscreen. Sunscreen sprays are ideal for the body.

Good luck
<33; May 13, 2010 at 2:53 PM
Anonymous said...: hi
i have been an acne sufferer all my adult life. i have also used many otc products including pro active and porselene without any good results. while i change my products after about every 6months i have managed to stick to clearasil range becos they are just the most readliy available products. recently, i went to my dermatologist who asked me to stop the clearasil and prescribed differin gel and skinoren creams to be used on alternate days for 3 months. he also prescribed doxycycline. i have been using all 3 for over 2 months now with no visible change. my face is very oily and i also sweat a lot as our weather is very humid so its a bit difficult to rub creams on the face during the day so i hardly use any sunscreen. then someone asked me to use makari soap, so i started the skin whitening soap and the sulphur soap almost about the same time. this was about 2 weeks ago. i saw an immediate difference once i started with the makari(by the way i absolutely wont use any of the makari creams). i have howver formed some new cysts on my face but i dont know whetehr its becos of the makari or if its just my skin acting up the way it usually does. my fear now is that i have heard so many horror stories about makari. its still early so do u advice i stop using the makari. by the way i am nigerian but considered very fair skinned but with bad acne. this is my regimen:
a.m
sulphur soap left on the face for about 30mins before bath
then wash face with whitening soap during bath
rub face with magiclear gel
p.m
makari sulphur soap on the face for about 30mins before washing off
apply either differin gel or skinoren cream as prescribed by the doctor
apply magiclear about 20 mins after
so whats your advice. thanks; June 3, 2010 at 5:43 AM
Mileena said...: Hello ;)

The Makari soaps aren't as potentially acne inducing as the creams. Soaps in general aren't supposed to be left on the skin for a long time.

Does the magicclear gel contain hydroquinone or is it simply just an acne treatment?

Ditch the Skinoren cream and stick with Differen Gel straight on since you have oily skin.

I'll also suggest a sunscreen. Without it, you are only damaging/aging your skin since you are using an rx retinoid (Differin) which exfoliates the skin thus leaving it sun sensitive. Sunscreen is so important and it doesn't have to be super greasy. Trust me.

The Elta MD UV Clear SPF 46 is a good one, semi-matte and great for acne prone skin types. I use the Sofina, completley matte, sweat-proof, water-proof and is so cosmetically elegant on my oily skin. I do use a cleansing oil to remove it, but it's worth it for the matte-ness it gives me.

Here is how your regimen should look:

AM:
- Sulphur Soap to cleanse skin. Leave foam on for 3 minutes MAX (not 30 minutes. that can cause a lot of irritation which can lead to increased oil production in the skin and acne)
- Magicclear gel
- *sunscreen*

PM:
- Makari Whitening Soap to cleanse
- Differin Gel straight on

That's it. See how that works for you. If the cystic acne continues, opt for a more gentle cleansing method like a facial cleanser as oppsed to a soap. Being gentle is key when it comes to lightening and treating acne.; June 3, 2010 at 2:23 PM
Anonymous said...: Hi Mileena!

I am a 33 year old male. I have sensitive and oily skin. I would like to lighten my face at least 3 shades. Are DHC Acerola 100 and Skinceuticals Phyto+ good for me?

Thank you.; June 8, 2010 at 1:36 AM
Mileena said...: Hey,

For lightening up 3 shades, and having oily/sensitive skin the DHC Acerola 100 (probably the only gentle vitamin c derivative product out there IMO that works) and Skinceuticals Phyto + (HG skin lightener) can definitley do it.

It should be an entire regimen though, so make sure to wear sunscreen during the day, everyday. That'll go a long way in itself at preventing sun damage and darkening.

Exfoliate a few times a week with a scrub or glycolic acid/lactic acid peel/mask. There are so many out there found in drugstores it shouldn't be a problem. So a routine would look like this:

Morning:
Cleanse
DHC Acerola 100
Sunscreen

Evening:
Cleanse
Skinceuticals Phyto+

Three times a week: exfoliate

;); June 8, 2010 at 9:43 AM
Kirija said...: Hi Mileena,

I'm wondering if you still are doing any skin consultations?

Thanks!; July 10, 2010 at 8:58 PM
Mileena said...: Yes I am Kirija.

You can always e-mail me (contact info in the Contact section up top).

;); July 11, 2010 at 10:27 AM
Anonymous said...: uno, dos, tres; August 28, 2010 at 6:50 PM
Anonymous said...: hey hi,how good is the unitone white 4 plus gel from isis pharma?i hope there are no side effects?; December 3, 2010 at 11:25 AM
Mileena said...: I've never heard of the Unitone White 4 Plus Gel .. what are the active ingredients in it?

Generally it's best to stay away from hydroquinone as an all over lightener.; December 3, 2010 at 9:51 PM
Anonymous said...: hi i am a nigerian,n i wud love to lighten like three or four shades more.i dont hv much budget cus i am a student.i hv a very sensitive skin n hv spots from pimples due to the creams i hv used.here in nigeria the weather is hot so i wnt somethin active.pls send me a list of creams.pls reply as soon as possible.thanx; December 4, 2010 at 2:12 AM
Mileena said...: Hi,

since you live in such a hot/intense climate I would advise against any usage of hydroquinone since that is reactive to the sun (yes even with sunscreen on).

You need more than just 'one product'. Since you have a limited budget, buy things only that are really beneficial to your skin:

- a peel (10% or higher in AHA). Olay Regenerist Microdermabrasion + Peel Kit or any product with lactic acid OR glycolic acid in it used 3x (or more) a week.

- sunscreen (a good one) - Neutrogena Ultra Sheer, Sofina UV Perfect Lucent etc.

- a lightener like FloClaire Hypercreme Illumination Fluid. Great for your budget.

It'll take time, but with a good peel used consistently/weekly, sunscreen daily and something that gently breaks up pigment (Hypercreme Illumination Fluid - which can be used day (underneath your sunscreen) and night or just at night) you should see results. It takes time to get 3-4 shades lighter though.

It took a year to get 2 shades lighter all over. But it does happen.

Try looking into papaya soaps which do exfoliate very well via enzyme breakdown and have mild brightening properties. Used daily in the shower, over time does yield results. :); December 4, 2010 at 9:04 PM
Anonymous said...: Hi mileena,

I am asian, I was very fair but in the last year my slin has darkened alot especially my forehead. I tried nur 76 but that was a waste of money. Can you suggest what i should use to return back to my original skin colour please.

thank you; December 11, 2010 at 6:34 AM
Mileena said...: Hi,

You need to build a skin lightening regimen not just one product so...

- sunscreen (one to wear daily)
- exfoliant (either weekly peels (enzyme or alpha hydroxy acid based) OR leave-on AHA serums/creams or retinoids)
- antioxidant (vitamin c - Skinceuticals AOX 15 samples on ebay or C+E Ferulic sample OR DHC Acerola 100. Antioxidants are used in the daytime underneath your sunscreen).
- A lightener like Paul & Joe Whitening Beat Serum; December 11, 2010 at 8:34 PM
wickedkewl said...: i just read this article. <3; December 14, 2010 at 3:33 AM
Anonymous said...: Hi Milenna,

I'm Muslim-American and according to your chart my skin color is about bronze-deep bronze. I would really like to become lighter. Maybe become anywhere from fair to medium beige. So far I've used lemons, milk, and yogurt (all separately). I'm also using Clarins skin brightener. I feel as though what I've been doing just isn't enough. Maybe I'm a little too impatient, but I haven't seen any results yet.

Thanks! I really hope you can help me!

-Aisha; February 21, 2011 at 4:09 PM
Mileena said...: Hi Aisha!

The number one thing to get in a skin lightening regimen is sunscreen. Do you currently use any sunscreen on a daily basis when you go out during the daytime? It's really vital to do this as all your attempts - lemons, yogurt, the Clarins brightener or anything lightener is futile without it. When you inhibit the melanin production in your skin -- you are becoming more sensitive to the sun.

Click on the 'sunscreen' tag on the right hand side of my blog under Labels do get all the blog posts I wrote on my favorite sunscreens. There you can pick one that will suit your skin type.

Aside from sun protection, you also need a gentle yet consistent form of exfoliation like a weekly peel or some leave-on AHA product at night. A weekly peel is ideal and great to use since it's potent and does a great job of promoting a brighter, more even toned, smoother complexion. I love the peels by Makeupartistschoice like the 40% Lactic Acid. Love that one!

If you are more interesting in using a leave on AHA (alpha hydroxy acid) product every night, why not try one of the MD Forte Facial Cream Formulations? The Level 2 and level 3 are the strongest. I'd suggest going for the MD Forte Facial Cream Formulation II if this is the route you want to take for your exfoliation.

Finally you need a skin lightener. The O'slee White Medi Perfect Whitening Serum (check a few blog entries back for my recommendation on it and the link to the website where you can purchase it for $17.00) is a great one. This can be used alone at night, or underneath your sunscreen during the day. If you plan on using a leave-on AHA product instead of using an AHA peel weekly (it's honestly your choice - they are both great ways of exfoliation) you can buffer your AHA with the O'slee at night by using that first and applying the AHA lotion on top.

This is totally optional, but you can get a skin lightening soap as well. These have a cumulative effect and do work overtime when used consistently. The Belo Essentials Whitening Soap For Normal Skin Types looks fabulous with gigawhite + kojic acid. Used daily (leave on for 2 minutes before rinsing off to allow for penetration of the active ingredients) it should give you visible results.

All the products I mentioned (aside from the MD Formulations Cream II) are found on this blog. If you have any more questions, fire away I'm always open and ready to answer them. If you need more info on the products I mentioned, search for it in the custom search bar up top.

Best of luck Aisha!
<333; February 21, 2011 at 4:48 PM
Elsie said...: Hey Mileena!

I comment here, 'cause I don't want to screw your posts with other topics, hehehe :)

I just want your opinion about my skin regimen, as I told you before, I use drula products and they worked for me, but I'm thinking about quiting using them 'cause they have titanium dioxide (by the way I would love to know you opinion about titanium dioxide), and I also used Mario Badescu's Vitamin C serum.

I bought some samples of SkinCeutical's Phyto+ and 20 aox, I also bought the BeautyDIY alpha arbutin complex.

So this is my regimen:

AM
- Wash my face and arms with Drula's complexion soap (the last bar I have)
- Pad dry with a towel
- Skinceutical's 20 aox
- wait a few minutes
- Skinceutical's Phyto+
- Wait 5 or 10 minutos
- Apply Shiseido's Perfect UV sunscreen (I know you don't like this sunscreen, but I have dry skin, so it works OK for me)

I don't use makeup at all, I only use eyeshadow and eyeliner, so, anything else touches the skin of my face.

PM

I also take a shower at night so:

- Remove sunscreen and exfoliate my face and arms.
- Pad dry with a towel
- Use the Mario Badescu's C serum I have left
- Apply BeautyDIY alpha arbutin complex (I didn't mix it with anything elsie), I don't use cotton or anything, just pour the complex in my hand and spread it in my face and arms.

I want my skin of my arms and face match the rest of my body skin, I'm mexican but I have a very white skin (I'm european descended), so my poor skin is full of freckles and my arms are very tanned.

I'll show you some pics (from my facebook and twitpic), so you can see the damage:

This is me as a kid with my nanny:

http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/72263_456698641880_521866880_5841422_4220862_n.jpg

This is the part of my forearm that doesn't have sun damage (don't pay attention to the doodle I did XD):

http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/4712_103831036880_521866880_2331654_7635911_n.jpg

This is the part of my forearm that have sun damage, losts of freckles and i'ts very tanned, a curious thing: i don't have any freckles or sun damage in my hands, as you can ser part of my wrist.

http://twitpic.com/1ds2pz

This is me, LOL. As you can see, I have a very mild case of rosacea (It doesn't bother me at all but I know I have to take care of it, so it doesn't get worse), as you can also see, my face is not as white as it should be:

http://twitpic.com/5qvwr

I don't know if it is melasma or just post inflammatory hyperpigmentation. I don't have kids but I used birth control pills, but I also had (not anymore since I started my skincare regimen) a very flaky forehead so I used St Ives apricot scrub every single day! (I know, that was a very baaaaaad idea but I was desperate and ignorant, hehehe), I know it can be hormonal, caused by the extra kilos in my body, but I'm working on it, I'm with a bariatrician for a good diet and do some exercise every day, so hopefully it will help to improve my skin

http://twitpic.com/3r0c4m

What's your opinion about my regimen? should I use anything else?

I want to add this products to my regimen, but I don't know if it is a good idea:

Mario Badescu's Rasperry Body Scrub

http://www.mariobadescu.com/raspberry-body-scrub

Mario Badescu's Strawberry Face Scrub

http://www.mariobadescu.com/strawberry-face-scrub

Mario Badescu's A.H.A Botanical Body soap

http://www.mariobadescu.com/aha-botanical-body-soap

AmLactin Moisturizing lotion

BeautyDIY Job's Tear & Licorice Water Brightening Treatment

A peel, but I don't know exactly what peel, hehehe.

Hyaluronic Acid

But I would LOVE to read your opinion and products recomendations

Best regards!; March 8, 2011 at 8:46 PM
Mileena said...: Hi Elsie!

First off, you are beautiful!! And adorable as a kid too. Lovely skin and everything else - and I used to have somewhat similar freckles on my arms as well from years of sun damage.

To make sure I get all your inquiries answered I'm gonna go in order in which you asked. So...

Your question regarding the safety of titanium dioxide - titanium dioxide is completely safe. I know there were a lot of beauty bloggers and skin care gurus before stating that titanium dioxide or any uncoated mineral on a macro or nano scale can be toxic is false. It is perfect fine to use with no negative consequences on our health. Read this study:

http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/20354643

If Drula products are working for you, then by all means stick with it. Whenever I find a product that works for me I don't let it go, lol. Though I must say your current skin regimen looks FANTASTIC! Amazing products you got in there!

You are doing everything right in terms of using the right products - great vitamin c products, lighteners (Drula and Alpha Arbutin Complex) and sunscreen. Are you finding your sunscreen protects you fully? If you are getting any re-pigmentation on your face or wherever you apply the Shiseido then it's probably not high enough of protection for you. If the areas that are protected with it are remaining the same OR becoming lighter then it is protecting you very well!

Regardless avoiding as much direct sun exposure as you can is highly recommended while skin lightening.

The freckles and excess pigmentation on your forearms look like deep sun damage to me. And since you mentioned your hands are don't have the same amount of sun damage, it leads me to believe the freckles/sun damage on your forearms are perma-tan (permanent tan). This is very common and I have a bit on my forearms too. No matter how much I try to treat it, it is damaged DNA there. There is a chance it might not be a perma-tan - do you wear gloves often, perhaps this is why your hands aren't as badly damaged as the your arms. Always make sure to protect the skin on your arms with sunscreen as well. I always use a separate sunscreen for my body to save money since facial sunscreens come in such small sizes I usually opt for a body spray sunscreen from Coppertone or BullFrog.

Using the Drula soap (or any brightening soap like Likas Soap or Belo Essentials) with some type of alpha hydroxy acid product should significantly help in fading some of the mottled tanning and freckles. When using a skin lightening soap on areas of your body like your arms, leave it on for at least 2 minutes in the shower before rinsing off. Overtime this does make an impact. Follow up with an AHA lotion like AmLactin or MD Forte.

Just make sure to keep these areas protected.

The products you are using currently are awesome. I must say, you've done very well in selecting the right products, lol! Just stick with it and trust me, results will come.

You can add a few things like the Mario Badescu AHA soap (focus on your arms and face with this one) to replace the Drula one if you want. BUT if Drula is giving your results (even if they are minor results) stick with it.

Some type of body lotion with AHAs should dramatically help your arms and other areas. AmLactin is great and favorite of mine. I use it on my face too for a nice exfoliation.

I would pass on the BeautyDIY Job's Tear & Licorice Water Brightening Treatment. I'm going to review it soon and I am not pleased with it =(

A peel is excellent for removing a lot of sun damage. If they are high in %, they exfoliate deep to remove the epidermal layer which encourages the skin to create collagen and create cells with less damage. MUAC (Makeupartistchoice) peels are my favorite and I love to use their products.

continued in the post below....; March 9, 2011 at 10:59 AM
Mileena said...: A peel is something you should introduce a bit later on, just continue doing what you are doing. Make sure not to overdo it with the vitamin c - if you see some type of irritation or you *feel* your skin is becoming irritated from the AOX 20 then slow down, and use it every 3 days. I actually only use L-ascorbic acid 2 times a week. I find it works best like this for me.

You're on the right track, just keep consistent with and you'll definitely start seeing results. Skin lightening is so gradual, it takes time. By week 5-6 you should see some radiance, some fading of freckles and overall brightening (and some lightening in more hyperpigmented areas).

A peel can help in evening everything out. I find when I lighten without a peel (lighten meaning use sunscreen, botanical lighteners etc.) my skin lightens up slowly and unevenly. A peel like MUAC's Lactic Acid or Mandelic Acid Peel can not only hasten the lightening process by it exfoliates the entire epidermis very well so all old, dead melanin filled cells are sloughed off and replaced the new cells which have been treated with the products you have been using so they will have less melanin content. Used consistently, a peel can dramatically lighten skin and sun damage.

Best of luck Elsie!! Keep me updated via e-mail or on this post. Would love to know how these products do on your skin. Just keep going! <333; March 9, 2011 at 11:01 AM
Elsie said...: Hello Meelena!

I guess blogger hates me, I'm having problems posting comments :S

First of all thank you soooo much! you made me blush! hehehe. :D

I'm soooo happy with the results I'm getting! And I owe it all to you! If it wasn't for you and your blog I'll probably be lost in my quest of skin lightening! I'm so grateful!! you rule!

Last week (the second week with my new skin care regimen) my mother told me "Wow! your skin look so much lighter! it almost matches the rest of your skin!" It was so good to hear it from my mom 'cause I saw results whitin DAYS but I thought I was hallucinating! LOL.

Thank you, thank you, thank you soooo much Meelena! you don't have any idea of how grateful I am!

I saw improvement with Drula products but Skinceuticals products are so much better! The only Drula product I'll keep using is the compexion soap. Thank you for the titanium dioxide link and post. Now I don't have any concerns about it! :D

I don't use gloves, but the other day I noticed how I put my hands on the wheel, I kinda hide my hands from the sun, so my arm gets all the sun.

I maybe have some perma-tan, but I don't know yet, so far, my extremely tanned arm it's getting better (and lighter) so I guess it's just a matter of time.

I don't know if there's a difference netween Shiseido's blue bottled sunscreens ( http://www.us.shiseido.com/sc/product/list.asp?A=04&B=23 ) and the Anessa ones ( http://www.shiseido.co.jp/anessa/). I use the yellow one from Anessa.

Netx step: get the peel, and the AmLactin Moisturizing lotion. USA here I goooo! hahaha ;)

I'll keep you updated and I'll post pics so you can see the improvement.

Receive a big hug from a very grateful reader! *hug*; March 25, 2011 at 9:53 AM
Mileena said...: Aw, Elsie I'm so glad you are seeing results! That is so awesome <33

Skinceuticals products are excellent aren't they? I love the Phyto+! They take awhile to work, but it's worth it since the ingredients are so great.

I look forward to your updates! <333; March 25, 2011 at 11:18 AM

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