Peels & Microdermabrasion

Getting a peel or microdermabrasion done are both great ways to get exfoliation. Effective exfoliation is really important when you are skin lightening, since melanin-filled, dead skin cells can remain on the skin for up to 28 days if not sloughed off chemically or manually.That obviously plays a huge role on the appearence of the skin, causing dullness, uneven skintone, and blotchiness. Exfoliation also speeds up the whole process of lightening up, by increasing the rate of cell turnover, allowing skin cells with less melanin load to surface (especially when used in conjunction with a skin lightener or Vitamin C product).

Prior to using retinoids, I was really big on chemical peels and microdermabrasion. They were my main method of exfoliation. Particularily peels since my skin is very sensitive to scrubs. Now I get sufficient exfoliation with Retin-A gel, but I still like to use peels from time to time since they give my skin a great glow and radiant appearence.

If you are interested in using a peel or microdermabrasion, whether it be OTC (over-the-counter products) or a professional one, here is an outline of the differences and benefits between the two.

Peels:

Peels are either chemical or enzyme-based. Chemical peels utilize alpha hydroxy acids (AHA) that exfoliate the epidermal layer of the skin (surface, top layer). This is particularily useful since exfoliating the epidermal layer allows skin cells from below the surface (which tend to have lower melanin content, especially if you are using sunscreen, a skin lightener or topical antioxidant) to rise up sooner.

The AHAs in a chemical peel vary, and all have slight differences. Glycolic acid is the most popular since it packs a huge punch in terms of rate of exfoliation. It is one of the strongest and is the most effective at the pH of 3.5-4. Glycolic acid is great, however if you are a novice to using AHAs or peels, I wouldn't recommend it since it can be very irritating to some.

Lactic acid is a personal favorite of mine. It is just as effective as glycolic acid, however much more mild. Lactic acid is best for darker skin types, and for people trying to lighten since lactic acid itself has a melanin inhibiting effect if used for a long time. It also helps that it isn't as irritating as other acids, so there is a low risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

Enzyme peels are basically the same thing, however much more gentle and have no alpha hydroxy acids. Papaya is a popular ingredient in enzyme peels, since papaya extract contains live enzymes which break down dead skin cells. There are other botanical enzymes which can lead to exfoliation like a high concentration of aloe vera. Enzyme peels are great since they can be used several times a week, with the least amount of irritation.

My Favorite Peels:

Makeupartistschoice 40% Lactic Acid Peel with Licorice Extract

Alba Enzyme Peel
Neostrata Advanced Dermo Systems Skin Renewal Peel
Aloette Enzyme Restorative Peel
Alpha Hydrox AHA Peel
Juice Beauty Green Apple Peel
Homemade Yogurt Mask <-- not technically a peel, but features a high concentration of pure lactic acid and the brightening I get from it is awesome.

Microdermabrasion

Most of us know what microdermabrasion is. It is like a glorified mechanical scrub, usually involving alumminum crystals being blasted on a micro scale at the skin, shedding off the epidermal layer. Microdermabrasions can be really beneficial for those with texturized acne scars and can have an effect on keloids.

In terms of skin lightening and treating pigmentation problems, microdermabrasion is very similar to a peel in that it helps with speeding up the entire lightening process and treating uneven, blotchy skin. It truly depends on the skin type, and sensitivity factor. I've tried some OTC microdermabrasions and found them to be too irritating. I did find they left my skin very, very smooth and helped a lot of with clogged pores.

For very dark skin, I wouldn't recommend a microdermabrasion product. Well - a strong one, or professional one. Stick to peels or gentle OTC microdermabrasion kits.

My favorite microdermabrasion products:

Olay Regenerist Microdermabrasion + Peel Kit
Neova Microdermabrasion Scrub

If you are interested in professional strength peels or microdermabrasion, you can defintley check out local spas and such. I personally think there is a huge market for OTC peels/microdermabrasions that work very well (obviously not in the same caliber, but less expensive and can be used more consistently which in the end will benefit you more).

If you are using rx retinoids, you can still use peels or microdermabrasions but use them once or twice a week. No more than that, since retinoids exfoliate very well on their own, but peels/microdermabrasions enhance penetration even further and can still provide some great benefits beyond retinoid use.

Being on a skin lightening regimen, it's important to get some sort of exfoliation frequently. Be it through retinoids, leave-on AHA products, salicylic acid, scrubs, peels or microdermabrasions.  Make sure to wear sunscreen (regardless, but still it's extra important if you are using retinoids or peels, microdermabrasions) since the skin post-exfoliation is fresh skin that is prone to sun damage. It is easy to lose all your hard work in just an hour of unprotected skin, trust me.

=D