Retinoids & Skin Lightening

Note: It's been brought to my attention, that members from the Skin Care Talk Forum have literally 'taken' my post word for word without my permission and posted it on their forum taking full credit. Originally i was going to do something (..and I still can since it's my article) but I paid a visit to their skin lightening forum and found the post has helped many people. For that, I'll let it go. If it's helping people out (which is what the whole point of All About Skin Lightening is) then that is all that matters.

I originally posted this back in 2007 on The Bright Skin Forum. It is still located in the Skin Lightening Forum there.

=)

The following is an informative post regarding retinoid use on the skin and its benefits towards anti-aging and skin lightening.

General Information:
First and foremost I would like to define what retinoids are. Retinoids are a class of Vitamin A derivatives. Their main objective is to regulate and repair abnormal/damaged skin cells and replace them with new, healthy cells. Dermatologists have discovered there are well over 30 beneficial acts retinoids can produce on the skin (treating acne being the most widely recognized claim in the medical world).

Retinoids are a key preventive of skin aging, as well as powerful treatment for existing symptoms (wrinkles, spots, loss of collagen and pigmentation concerns). They are the only medicines that have the ability to repair damaged DNA in the skin.

Skin lightening is also an evident result of regular retinoid use. It should be noted that retinoids do not bleach the skin. They only repair sun damage (i.e. help the skin return to its original color after excessive sun exposure). Melasma patients as well as patients suffering from acne scars are usually prescribed a retinoid to help reduce the amount of excess melanin and to aid the skin in distributing the melanin evenly (obtain an even complexion).
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Types of Retinoids:
Retinoids are divided into 2 different classes: OTC (Over the Counter) and Rx (Prescription).

OTC Retinoids are products that contain retinol, retinaldehyde or retrinal. Retinol is not as strong as an Rx retinoid (i.e. Adapalene) however studies have shown that if it penetrates well enough into the skin (you must take the type of product into consideration, if it contains AHA or not, or contains silicones which hinder penetration) a certain amount of retinol will be converted by enzymes into tretinoin (retionic acid – the form that is useful to the skin). Retinol products are great for individuals who are new to retinoids as they are not as potent or irritating.

Retinaldeyhe is more effective than retinol because it is one step closer to being pure retionic acid. The skin’s enzymes have to convert retinol into retinaldehyde to become retionic acid.

Prescription retinoids are products such as Retin-A, Tazorac, or Differin. There are many others but these are the 3 most popular. They come in a variety of strengths. Retin-A utilizes tretinoin, which is pure retinoic acid. It is very effective at treating acne, diminishing wrinkles and lightening of pigment – however it also produces the most irritation. Peeling and dryness are the most common side effects.
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Use of Retinoids:
I would like to first address that retinoids should only be used during the evening. Studies have shown them to become toxic when exposed to UVA/UVB rays (I am referring to Rx retinoids here). You should also always wear sunscreen during the A.M. and never use Vitamin C along with a retinoid (as it degrades the effectiveness). Vitamin C serums should be used in the daytime underneath your sunscreen. Also during the first few weeks of retinoid use (usually only with Rx retinoids) you will be experiencing acne, or worsening of acne. This is normal, it is the retinoid pushing the excess dirt, oil and clearing the pores.

The best products containing retinol:
- SkinMedica Retinol Complex
- Neutrogena Healthy Skin Anti-Wrinkle Cream
- Neutrogena Healthy Skin Intensive Serum
- RoC Retinol Correxion
- DDF Energizing Moisturizer

The best products containing retinaldehyde:
- Avene Ystheal Gel
- Avene Diacneal (excellent product, combines 6% AHA and 0.1% retinaldehyde. It penetrates deep within the skin due to the AHA as well as inhibits melanin well).
- Avene Eulage
- Avene Retrinal (very gentle, great for beginners. Comes in 3 strengths. Highly recommended.)

Prescription retinoids for darker skinned individuals:
- Retin-A Micro
- Differin Gel


Prescription retinoid for ‘tough’, resilient skin:
- Retin-A
- Tazorac Gel

Tip to reduce irritation: Despite Differin being the gentlest retinoid, a dark skinned individual can use Retin-A and Tazorac if they can reduce the amount of irritation. A great way is to buffer the retinoid. Apply a basic moisturizer (Cetaphil, Neutrogena oil-free moisture, aquaphor) over bare cleansed skin. Wait for about 1 hour and then apply a thin layer of your retinoid over the skin. This should reduce the amount of peeling (which is normal when using a retinoid; it is sheding off old skin), dryness and irritation.

If you are interested in a prescription retinoid, talk to your doctor about prescribing the lowest strength retinoid.

Check out these sites for more information. I also got most of my information from them:
http://www.makeupalley.com/user/notepad/tetrakis/
http://www.doctorgoodskin.com/pd/retinoids/http://www.skincarephysicians.com/acnenet/scarring.html)http://dermnetnz.org/treatments/topical-retinoids.html
http://www.smartskincare.com/treatments/topical/retinoids.html
http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/entrez/query.fcgi?db=pubmed&cmd=Retrieve&dopt=AbstractPlus&list_uids=17314969&query_hl=6&itool=pubmed_docsum
http://www.postgradmed.com/issues/1997/08_97/kligman.htm