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Hydrogen Peroxide: Skin Bleacher?

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Tuesday, December 22, 2009

Hydrogen Peroxide: Skin Bleacher?

Nothing ever really suprises me about so called 'tried and true' skin bleaching methods, especially when they stem from an old wives tale. The use of hydrogen peroxide as a skin bleaching/skin lightening agent has been a notion that a lot of people believe and use. I just don't understand why anyone would want to put something as aggressive and destroying on their skin.

The truth is that hydrogen peroxide is one of the worst things you can apply to your skin (obviously next to hydroquinone). It is a prime pro-oxidant (opposite of an anti-oxidant, like Vitamin C, it pulls in oxygen radicals which damage skin and contribute to acne scarring/ skin darkening in the long run). Hydrogen Peroxide is used in labs to kill tested bacteria almost instantly. Imagine what a substance like this can do, when used cosmetically? It's pretty crazy if you ask me!

It's not uncommon for hydrogen peroxide to corrode skin. Even at small concentrations like you can find in drugstores, it contributes to inflammation, superoxide anion radicals and stinging.

In terms of skin lightening, well many people who like to use hydrogen peroxide on their acne scars/marks and over their entire face comment on how much 'lighter' their skin looks after the apply it. That whitening you see is the result of micro gas bubbles forming in the epidermis (surface layer of the skin). This process is very harsh on the skin, it can kill skin cells and to a very small extent, the melanocytes.

This is a temporary effect. Once the skin slowly regenerates itself, the melanin production returns but often it is increased in production due to the 'trauma' of extreme oxidative stress. The texture of the skin becomes rough, uneven and bumpy. Inflammation pimples (tiny red dots) can form and wherever acne was, it can leave dark or red acne scars.

The skin lightening/skin bleaching effect of hydrogen peroxide is like a mask. Underneath you are destorying your skin and actually making acne scars darker (and deeper and texturized) and overall skin tone dull and uneven.

Hydrogen peroxide should be left for medicial and scientific use - not cosmetic use. Not ever. Especially for skin lightening.

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4 Comments:

Anonymous D said...

I used to use a hydrogen peroxide facial hair bleach once every month or so and did notice that my skin looked progressively lighter but in an artifical way, almost sickly. Anyway I ditched it for laser hair removal once I heard about it being a pro-oxidant. I also avoid oxygen face masks for the same reason. They definately make your face look noticeably brighter for a few days afterwards but they're actually causing unseen damage to the skin. I had no idea the skin looks brighter because of gas bubbles in the epidermis! That's a bit scary!

By the way, do you know of any other sunscreens with added skincare benefits? Like you I'm more encouraged to wear my sunscreen if it has an added kick to it. I like the Olay White Radiance I mentioned to you before but i'm nearing the end of it now and want to try something new.

Other than the Bioderma one you reviewed (I've ordered that now btw!) a new one I heard about today is the Elta MD UV Clear SPF 46. It contains a high % of niacinamide and the ingredients look very skin friendly in general. The PPD should be similar to Shiseido/Sofina sunscreens, here's the ingredients list:

Active Ingredients:
9.0% Zinc Oxide
7.5% Octinoxate

Inactive Ingredients:
Purified Water, Cyclomethicone, Niacinamide, Octyldodecyl Neopentanoate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Polyisobutene, PEG-7 Trimethylolpropane Coconut Ether, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Lactic Acid, Oleth-3 Phosphate, Phenoxyethanol, Butylene Glycol, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate, Triethoxycaprylylsilane

Sounds good, no?

December 22, 2009 at 5:40 PM  
Blogger Mileena said...

6% niacinamide, that is a great amount, even moreso than the concentration in Olay Regenerist (which advertises niacinamide as it's star ingredient). Anything above 5% is proven to have a melanin supressing effect so that's awesome.

That sunscreen would probably be great for this time of year, and indoors. The inactives are alright. For some reason my skin just hates Octyldodecyl Neopentanoate, which is just a simple skin emollient but since it's so high in the ingredient list (and usually near the middle or bottom on the products I tried and broke out too) I can imagine it can clog up some of my pores.

Then again my skin is very prone to clogged pores, and as of now I am clear so I try to stay clear or at least be weary of certain ingredients I *know* my skin just doesn't like.

Also, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate is a preservative that can be allergen to sensitive skin types. If you have sensitive skin, just be cautious.

I've been test trying some sunscreens at my local drugstore (Shoppers Drug Mart) like Vichy UV Active Daily Protective Anti-Pigmentation Fluid SPF 50 and L'oreal UV perfect which seem really nice and got decent PPDs. I don't mind hydration at this point, but they both feel a little too moisturizing. I never know until I really apply it on my face, but I always doubt it.

Right now I'm sticking with my Sofina (still haven't fulled decided if I am going to purchase the Bioderma yet) but to combat the dryness I apply some La Roche Posay Toleraine Fluid around my mouth area, on top of my Vichy Bi White Double Reveal essence and that is doing the trick at keeping those flakes of dry skin away. =)

December 22, 2009 at 6:19 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

I used a hydrogen peroxide facial hair bleach on over my uper lip and i got horrible dark stains, it's taking a lot of time for my skin to regenerate and it's painful to see.

April 23, 2010 at 4:32 PM  
Blogger Mileena said...

Oh, I'm sorry to hear that. HP should never be used for cosmetic reasons, only for mild wound cleansing. That is all.

Chemical burns and dark stains take awhile to fade. Using skin strengthening ingredients like niacinamide (vitamin B3) can really faciliate the healing.

NIA24 is something to look into. If you want to start small, Olay Regenerist Frag. Free Serum has some niacinamide in it which can be a great place to start with your skin.

Sunscreen and rx retinoids (retinoids repair damaged DNA) can also help as well.

Biggest thing is time. It takes awhile, and always wear sunscreen. It will prevent the dark stains to get any darker and will allow your skin time to regenerate.

;)

April 23, 2010 at 4:44 PM  

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