This Page

has been moved to new address

Featured Ingredient: Licorice Extract

Sorry for inconvenience...

Redirection provided by Blogger to WordPress Migration Service
----------------------------------------------- Blogger Template Style Name: Minima Black Designer: Douglas Bowman URL: www.stopdesign.com Date: 26 Feb 2004 ----------------------------------------------- */ body { background:#000; margin:0; padding:40px 20px; font:x-small "Trebuchet MS",Trebuchet,Verdana,Sans-Serif; text-align:center; color:#ccc; font-size/* */:/**/small; font-size: /**/small; } a:link { color:#9ad; text-decoration:none; } a:visited { color:#a7a; text-decoration:none; } a:hover { color:#ad9; text-decoration:underline; } a img { border-width:0; } /* Header ----------------------------------------------- */ @media all { #header { width:660px; margin:0 auto 10px; border:1px solid #333; } } @media handheld { #header { width:90%; } } #blog-title { margin:5px 5px 0; padding:20px 20px .25em; border:1px solid #222; border-width:1px 1px 0; font-size:200%; line-height:1.2em; color:#ccc; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:.2em; } #blog-title a { color:#ccc; text-decoration:none; } #blog-title a:hover { color:#ad9; } #description { margin:0 5px 5px; padding:0 20px 20px; border:1px solid #222; border-width:0 1px 1px; font:78%/1.4em "Trebuchet MS",Trebuchet,Arial,Verdana,Sans-serif; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:.2em; color:#777; } /* Content ----------------------------------------------- */ @media all { #content { width:660px; margin:0 auto; padding:0; text-align:left; } #main { width:410px; float:left; } #sidebar { width:220px; float:right; } } @media handheld { #content { width:90%; } #main { width:100%; float:none; } #sidebar { width:100%; float:none; } } /* Headings ----------------------------------------------- */ h2 { margin:1.5em 0 .75em; font:bold 78%/1.4em "Trebuchet MS",Trebuchet,Arial,Verdana,Sans-serif; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:.2em; color:#777; } /* Posts ----------------------------------------------- */ @media all { .date-header { margin:1.5em 0 .5em; } .post { margin:.5em 0 1.5em; border-bottom:1px dotted #444; padding-bottom:1.5em; } } @media handheld { .date-header { padding:0 1.5em 0 1.5em; } .post { padding:0 1.5em 0 1.5em; } } .post-title { margin:.25em 0 0; padding:0 0 4px; font-size:140%; line-height:1.4em; color:#ad9; } .post-title a { text-decoration:none; color:#ad9; } .post-title a:hover { color:#fff; } .post div { margin:0 0 .75em; line-height:1.6em; } p.post-footer { margin:-.25em 0 0; color:#333; } .post-footer em, .comment-link { font:78%/1.4em "Trebuchet MS",Trebuchet,Arial,Verdana,Sans-serif; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:.1em; } .post-footer em { font-style:normal; color:#777; margin-right:.6em; } .comment-link { margin-left:.6em; } .post img { padding:4px; border:1px solid #222; } .post blockquote { margin:1em 20px; } .post blockquote p { margin:.75em 0; } /* Comments ----------------------------------------------- */ #comments h4 { margin:1em 0; font:bold 78%/1.6em "Trebuchet MS",Trebuchet,Arial,Verdana,Sans-serif; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:.2em; color:#999; } #comments h4 strong { font-size:130%; } #comments-block { margin:1em 0 1.5em; line-height:1.6em; } #comments-block dt { margin:.5em 0; } #comments-block dd { margin:.25em 0 0; } #comments-block dd.comment-timestamp { margin:-.25em 0 2em; font:78%/1.4em "Trebuchet MS",Trebuchet,Arial,Verdana,Sans-serif; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:.1em; } #comments-block dd p { margin:0 0 .75em; } .deleted-comment { font-style:italic; color:gray; } .paging-control-container { float: right; margin: 0px 6px 0px 0px; font-size: 80%; } .unneeded-paging-control { visibility: hidden; } /* Sidebar Content ----------------------------------------------- */ #sidebar ul { margin:0 0 1.5em; padding:0 0 1.5em; border-bottom:1px dotted #444; list-style:none; } #sidebar li { margin:0; padding:0 0 .25em 15px; text-indent:-15px; line-height:1.5em; } #sidebar p { color:#999; line-height:1.5em; } /* Profile ----------------------------------------------- */ #profile-container { margin:0 0 1.5em; border-bottom:1px dotted #444; padding-bottom:1.5em; } .profile-datablock { margin:.5em 0 .5em; } .profile-img { display:inline; } .profile-img img { float:left; padding:4px; border:1px solid #222; margin:0 8px 3px 0; } .profile-data { margin:0; font:bold 78%/1.6em "Trebuchet MS",Trebuchet,Arial,Verdana,Sans-serif; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:.1em; } .profile-data strong { display:none; } .profile-textblock { margin:0 0 .5em; } .profile-link { margin:0; font:78%/1.4em "Trebuchet MS",Trebuchet,Arial,Verdana,Sans-serif; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:.1em; } /* Footer ----------------------------------------------- */ #footer { width:660px; clear:both; margin:0 auto; } #footer hr { display:none; } #footer p { margin:0; padding-top:15px; font:78%/1.6em "Trebuchet MS",Trebuchet,Verdana,Sans-serif; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:.1em; } /* Feeds ----------------------------------------------- */ #blogfeeds { } #postfeeds { }

Monday, February 22, 2010

Featured Ingredient: Licorice Extract

A popular skin lightening ingredient that has strong anti-inflammatory effects - licorice extract is the featured ingredient of this week. I knew if I was going to cover licorice extract, I had to shed more light on it and talk about ways to make the most out of it. Most of us who have used natural skin lightening or skin brightening products before have run across this ingredient, but many don't know why or how it works as a skin lightener.

The actual skin lightening ability in licorice extract is from Glabridin (the central ingredient that makes up the extract). Licorice extract is strictly a tyrosinase inhibitor. It blocks the enzyme that is responsible for creating melanin. It is a very useful and vital ingredient in a skin lightening regimen.

Licorice extract works best in the prescence of two other skin lightening notions or agents I should say: an ingredient which disrupts the transfer of melanin and an exfoliator. Like I stated earlier, licorice extract simply blocks the formation of melanin, however that is never a 100% complete process. Obviously some melanin does get produced (albeit less concentrated) so it makes sense to use something that blocks the transfer of the melanocytes to other cells (a domino effect). An exfoliator removes any excess cells that have gotten the 'leftover' melanin load.

It's all a process, I will be blogging more extensively on this process in another upcoming post.

The great thing about this ingredient is that it inhibits the enzyme responsible for melanin production without being cytotoxic like hydroquinone or potentially irritating like kojic acid. The intense anti-inflammatory ability is what makes this suppression so gentle and non-irritating. I think I've covered it in several posts, but anti-inflammatory agents are very important when skin lightening since inflammatory and irritation leads to a potential increase in melanin production.

Interesting Articles/Studies to read:

The inhibitory effect of glabridin from licorice extracts on melanogenesis and inflammation.

Natural Alternatives To Hydroquinone

Recommended products that contain Licorice Extract:

Vichy Bi White Double Reveal Whitening Essence

Bioderma White Objective Night Serum

Meladerm Pigment Reducing Complex

DDF Brightening Cleanser

Makeupartistschoice Lactic Acid Peel + Licorice Extract

MD Formulations - Vit-A-Plus Illuminating Serum

Dermaline Black Licorice Soap



=D

Labels:

30 Comments:

Anonymous Anonymous said...

Hi Meleena

I have oily acne prone skin with melasma i 've using retin a daily at night from last 4-5 monts recently me skin is really dry do you think i can be benefited from Aquaphor or would you recommend something else since i have acne problam too. If you will recommend Aquaphor do you know where can i purchase that in vancouver.

February 23, 2010 at 11:17 AM  
Blogger Mileena said...

Aquaphor is good for most skin types, but it's very similar to the consistency of Vaseline so it might be too rich or emollient for acne-prone skin. Usually dry or normal skin types can get away with using it as an all over treatment. I wouldn't recommend it for our skin type (acne prone or oily).

That dryness you are experiencing is something we all get from Retin-A use especially during this time of the year.

You can use Olay Regenerist (niacinamide moisturizer that suprisingly hydrates very, very well but is still pretty good for acne prone skin - if you aren't sensitive to silicones like dimethicone and such then the Regenerist is really good).

Some good moisturizers that I personally use whenever I get dryness (I alternate between these, IMO they are all great for acne prone skin). I like the Clinique Moisture Surge Extended Thirst Relief (Shoppers Drug Mart or Sephora), Avene Skin Recovery Cream (very rich, I use it sometimes around my mouth area when it gets really dry), La Roche Posay Toleriane Fluid (very lightweight, great for acne prone skin, hydrates minimally but still well). ;)

February 23, 2010 at 12:46 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Hi Meleena,

Thank you so much my eyes are really dry too eye lid and undereye could recommend good eye cream too sometime when i wash my face water just sting on eyes

February 23, 2010 at 1:33 PM  
Blogger Mileena said...

Yeah I know what you mean, because it gets so cold sometimes my eye area gets dry too. There are so many eye creams and gels out there, I use the Phytomer Soothing Eye Gel but honestly it's not anything special and I got it in a gift set. It's very generic and actually really expensive so I wouldn't recommend that.

I've been interested in the Kinerase Restructuring Firming Eye Cream. The Olay ones seem decent and have a decent price.

Shea butter is also very good at hydrating the eye area. I was suprised but way back before I was into skin care and such I would use just plain Shea Butter, just dabbed under my eyes and it would moisturize and plump them up wonderfully. It's worth a shot, plus it's inexpensive and has a great fragrance (well I love the fragrance of shea butter lol). =)

February 23, 2010 at 2:14 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Thank you

February 23, 2010 at 2:23 PM  
Blogger Mileena said...

Your welcome!

The dry effect will subside. It gets better in the spring and summer months (which are approaching). Just stick with it, the benefits are worth it.

February 23, 2010 at 2:39 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Hi Mileena,

What is IMO

February 24, 2010 at 10:23 AM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Hi Meleena,

What do think of UNT Skin care line i just order there Ex White 2 for my melasma i also have acne i was thinking about there acne line pore refiner and aqua fortis for combat the dryness i am getting from RETIN A . Could you pls find out is this is good line. I am getting small white pimple everysingle day on my cheeks and around my mouth . I've using RETIN A from 4-5 months and trying to get pregnant then i have to stop that i like the result i've getting from retin a for uneven skin and melasm but still getting those small white acne every day . Thank you

February 24, 2010 at 10:29 AM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Hi Mileena,

and also heard that japanese skin care line are good for skin is UNT skin line japanese or would you recommend any other line

February 24, 2010 at 10:31 AM  
Blogger Mileena said...

Internet abbreviation for "In My Opinion". lol ;)

February 24, 2010 at 1:16 PM  
Blogger Mileena said...

Hi, I haven't really looked into the UNT line extensively aside from the Ex White 2 because of the tranexamic acid content in it.

So you've been using Retin-A for 4-5 months and you are still getting acne? Hmm, perhaps it's something in your regimen that is causing it. What sunscreen are you using? Or do you use a moisturizer?

To help with the acne, if Retin-A isn't fully cutting it out, introduce a BHA (salicylic acid) product that can easily be fitted into your regimen. I love Paula's Choice 2% BHA liquid which I sometimes put it on in the morning after cleansing (especially during that time of the month). Stridex pads are also very good, very strong but have the right pH and can help clear up stubborn clogged pores. The UNT's acne line pore refiner can be a good moisturizer for you since it has a few emollients in it.

Finally where did you get your Retin-A from? Alldaychemist, Medsmex or CanadaPharmacy or through prescription? This is probably not the reason, but in a rare instance some people can break out from the non-prescription retinoids particular the one from Alldaychemist. =)

February 24, 2010 at 1:24 PM  
Blogger Mileena said...

No I don't think UNT is a Japanese brand. I know some Japanse skin whitening brands - most of them are just skin brighteners and really good sunscreens.

Shiseido, SK-II and Kose are probably the 3 most popular but there are others. Paul & Joe Whitening Serum is popular seller in my local ChinaTown.

Out of all the asian products, I like the Kose herbal esthetic whitening mask best. Great maintenance product that gives great results.

February 24, 2010 at 1:28 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Hi Mileena,

Thank you for reply i use la roche posay extreme fluide 50+ recently i bought vichy bi whhite esscene and been using this from last 4-5 days today i have very flair up do you think is this cause of susncreen to vichy product. i really need your help and where can i purchas Paula's Choice 2% in vancouver. i have tiny red and white acne all over my cheeks and forehead.

February 24, 2010 at 1:37 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Hi Mileena

Sorrey i forgot to tell you that i use prescription retin a micro

February 24, 2010 at 1:38 PM  
Blogger Mileena said...

It's definitley not because of the mixing of the two, perhaps it's just the Vichy Bi White that is the culprit.

Were you getting whiteheads on your cheeks and forehead before using the Vichy? If not, stop using the Bi White and see what happens with just sunscreen use.

The Paula's Choice is ordered online, as well as Stridex pads.

February 24, 2010 at 1:53 PM  
Blogger Mileena said...

Okay good, I was thinking that you were using an ADC version.

My concern is just to get that flare up out of the way. I would suggest to stop using the Bi White (for now) at least until the flare up goes away. If you don't like ordering online, you can get a great anti-acne product from Shoppers Drug Mart by Neostrata:

http://www.neostrata.ca/products/-category/acne-care/blemish-spot-gel/53/

That one has AHA and BHA in it. Very good, and judging by the reviews I've read I heard it's great. just be gentle with your skin, apply sparingly and don't introduce any new products until this flare up subsides just so you can figure out what the culprit was. =)

February 24, 2010 at 1:57 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Hi Mileena

Thank you sooooo much what do think i should look out for as ingridient wise exmaple is there something in Vichy bi white essence that is causing this problem vit c or somehting. I had acne before i do get them everyday but just one or two on cheeks small white ones and i also have some la roche posay effaclar toner its basically contain saliyscal acid or somehting called LHA and where can i get kose mask what site.

February 24, 2010 at 2:17 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Hi Mileena

Do you the sunscreen i am using right now is ok (la roche posay Extreme 50+) its says for oily to combination skin and non comendegenic or should swicth to ll roche posay AC 30+ for acne skin one.I am using extreme 50 + just cause i have melasma.

February 24, 2010 at 2:22 PM  
Blogger Mileena said...

The ingredients for Bi White are pretty good for most skin types, but then again I always say this, but everyone's skin is different. The only 2 things I can think of that may have caused this reaction from Vichy are:

Silicones like Cyclohexasiloxane which is high up on the list. Most people can tolerate silicones (including me and I'm acne prone) but again if it's high on the ingredient list like in this case it might be too much.

Also there are some mineral oils, which don't necessarily count as 'oil' ingredients since anything that has a moisturizing or hydrating quality has a derivative oil somehow. But the caprylic triglyceride and PEG-100 Stearate are one of the first few ingredients on there which can cause sensitivity and a flare up in some very, very sensitive people. I guess you are one of them in this case LOL.

I'm sure it's not the Vitamin C. Bi White has a small amount of salicylic acid which I find helps with my skin. I personally love it, this doesn't mean you rule it out entirely. Maybe Bi White is not the culprit, that is why you shouldn't introduce anything else that is new. It can be your sunscreen as well, especially if it is too rich or emollient on your skin. If you don't like your sunscreen, I can definitley recommend some more semi-matte ones that are sold all over in Canadian drugstores like SDM and London Drugs. Vichy Ultra Fluid Fasty Drying Formula, Aveeno Ultra Calming SPF 30 (moisturizing but has very good, non-acneic ingredients), La Roche Posay Anthelios AC 30.

Just be gentle to your skin until this breakout dwindles. Don't introduce many products, just do what you were doing before the breakout to get your skin back on track. If you are still getting pimples here and there, I strongly recommend a BHA product. the LRP Eddaclar Toner is alright, I'm not sure about it's pH, but if the acne still continues look into the Neostrata product.

As for the Kose mask, I get it from my local China Town but it can be ordered easily and safely off of this online Asian beauty store:

http://www.beautykat.com/Skin-Concern-Dryness/c3_23/p296/Kose-Medicated-Sekkisei-Herbal-Esthetic-(Whitening-Massage-Cream)-(150ml)/product_info.html

This mask is really for skin lightening, no anti-acne and it's great. I'm like obsessed with how it makes my skin just GLOW.

February 24, 2010 at 2:45 PM  
Blogger Mileena said...

From what I've read about the LRP Fluid SPF 50, it's fine but most people comment on how greasy it makes their skin looks. I was wondering if that was the problem but if it wears fine on your skin (not incredibly greasy) then it should be good.

For the spring and summer months, look into the LRP one since it is more matte and that is pretty needed in warmer weather.

Keep me updated on how your breakout is going. Acne sucks I know, but you'll get it under control it takes time. =)

February 24, 2010 at 2:50 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Thank you so much

February 24, 2010 at 2:56 PM  
Blogger Mileena said...

Your wlecome. And I'm serious, keep me updated. I want to know exactly what it is that's causing this breakout. I've been where you are. Thankfully Retin-A gel cured my pimples as well as my regimen as a whole so I know how it is. ;)

February 24, 2010 at 3:53 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Hi Mileena

Thank you once again for all your help with my acne and melasma i am feeling very down today i just found out yesterday from my Dr that i have two ovarian cysts on my left side is about 6" i am very scared he is going to schedule my appt with gyn. May that all flair up i've beeb having from that cysts i have i have read somewhere today when i was searching more about cysts in ovarise .I am going for another blood test today and see what happen next i was just crying last night .

February 25, 2010 at 10:20 AM  
Blogger Mileena said...

Hi, I'm so sorry. I hope everything goes well, stay strong. You know a lot of times, these things happen to us just to test us. About 2 years ago my mom got breast cancer which turned my world upside down since I had to go and take care of her after her surgery and through her chemo. Looking back it was such a taxing time on me and especially her, but it was also a blessing in disguise since through that I figured out what I really wanted to do with my life - be a nurse. To serve, protect and save lives.

Love and light to you! You will get through this. <3333333

February 25, 2010 at 11:23 AM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Thank you so much

February 25, 2010 at 12:19 PM  
Blogger Mileena said...

Oh your welcome ;) Be good to yourself, I know you have a lot on your plate right now, just remember to take care of yourself. The melasma/acne problem will subside and hopefully everything else will go just fine so don't worry yourself.

February 25, 2010 at 1:14 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Hi Mileena,

My doctor is sending me to gync today he said i should not worrey they can easily remove that cyst today i am gonna ask you what do you think of M2 Skin Technologies Skin Recovery Moisturizer
as i told you i've got flair up day before i do not from what (Vichy bi white or susncreen ) and i also used other day just for one sample of la roche posay effclar due instead of retin a at night may this could be the culprit but i used this one for only one night because i 've got very dry flaky skin i thought i should give this a shot for my active acne its say has four ingrident or so now my dr prescribe me with steriods cream to use for next 3-4 days. I was thinking to get La Roche Posay toleriane fluide or M2 Skin Technologies Skin Recovery Moisturizer for my dry flaky skin with acne/melasma after i stoped steriods cream .Any suggesstion pls

February 26, 2010 at 9:37 AM  
Blogger Mileena said...

First off, I'm happy everything is alright with you with the cysts. Thank god. ;)

Your doctor is probably prescribing steroid creams to calm down the inflammation from the flare up. Slow down on Retin-A micro as well, cut down to every other night. In the first year or so of retinoid use, it takes time. Even after you buold tolerance and use it nightly, sometimes if you feel (you can definitley feel when your skin is beyond regular dry and irritated)like your skin is over-retinoided (just a word I made up lol) then stop using it every day, and use it every other day, or every 2 days until your skin has calmed down a bit and flakiness is at least manageable.

The LRP Toleraine Fluide is awesome. I love it and use it around my mouth area (which is the only area on my face that gets flakies). I think it would be great, it's perfect for oily or acne prone skin. =)

February 26, 2010 at 10:55 AM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

I found some pure licorice extract here:

http://www.lotioncrafter.com/licorice-root-extract-certified-organic.html

do you think it would be good to mix in a lotion, and if so, how much should i put in it to lighten (not brighten) my skin? thanks!

January 30, 2011 at 1:42 PM  
Blogger Mileena said...

Excellent pure licorice extract! Great find

You can most definitely mix in a lotion, it can also be used as a toner or mask since it is water soluble. I always have a difficult time making my own DIY skin brighteners and skin lighteners mainly due to pH issues, but fortunately licorice extract has a pH that can easily fit into bland moisturizers (Neutrogena Oil-Free Moisture, LRP Toleraine Fluid etc.) without causing pH problems.

I believe it's around 7 (or maybe 7.5-8) so it's not terribly low so risk of irritation is not that high. Since melanin suppression is seen from such a broad strength with licorice extract (2-8% is the concentration that affects melanin) you should add very little.

From the reading the overview of the product, sticking between 2-5 is probably best so a little less than 1/2 a teaspoon should cut if mixed in your palm with a moisturizer.

You can mix it directly into the bottle if you are using a bland moisturizer or serum with no other actives. It all depends on the amount of product in there.

I would suggest mixing it fresh with each application though.

If the lightener already has licorice extract, that is even better. Adding a little less than 1/2 teaspoon fresh to an application of a lightener should do provide great skin brightening and skin calming effects.

Good luck!

January 30, 2011 at 7:54 PM  

Post a Comment

Subscribe to Post Comments [Atom]

<< Home