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Skin Lightening Myth: Jojoba Oil Treats Hyperpigmentation & Acne Marks

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Wednesday, May 12, 2010

Skin Lightening Myth: Jojoba Oil Treats Hyperpigmentation & Acne Marks

Photo credit: Honeybeepollen

I'm going to start a new series here debunking the various skin lightening myths we've heard and read about. There is a lot of great information out there on the internet (that is how I've learned so much about skin lightening the natural way) but unfortunatley a lot of it is false information. Hopefully blogging about all the misconceptions can help misinformed people see the light (no pun intended. lol so lame, I know).

The Top 10 Skin Lightening Myths post I wrote a couple of months back was more on a broad scale. It was covering skin lightening and skin whitening as a whole, and how the media and even some dermatologists dish out false claims. These particular posts I will be making refer specifically  to one myth.

And that is the connection between jojoba oil and hyperpigmentation and acne marks.

We've all heard about jojoba oil. It seems to have garnered a lot of attention as of late in the acne fighting community, but some people don't know that jojoba oil is sometimes represented as a hyperpigmentation/discoloration treatment as well.

The information I found online on this connection was...interesting. Since most of my blog is filled with factual information that is backed up by studies, I don't have a problem writing an article on a topic. However when something is a myth, or not concrete, valid truth - it is difficult to sift through the hundreds of sites advocating jojoba oil as the ultimate acne mark fading treatment.

A little background information about jojoba oil: it is made up of liquid wax esters that have a very similar composition to sebum (the oil the is produced by our skin and hair). It's generally not as irritating as other 'skin oil' products, and definitley is not as greasy as them as well. It should be noted though, jojoba oil does not moisturize as well as other skin oil products, and can be used also as a cleansing oil.

The acne community really has jumped on this particular ingredient because a lot of people find that it helps regulate their oil production. Since the composition of jojoba oil is so similar to sebum, it does have a balancing effect on the skin. Especially after cleansing. Many times using harsh products and cleansers can over stimulate the oil glands which causes all kinds of problems.

Focusing back to hyperpigmentation and acne marks; many people claim that introducing jojoba oil into their skin regimen has helped fade, even out and lighten their acne marks. The actual studies I found about jojoba oil and it's properties really do not validate the notion that it can lighten skin in any way. There are no enzyme inhibitors or melanocyte suppressing elements to jojoba oil. So, with this particular myth, the truth is...

Jojoba oil cannot lighten skin or fade acne marks, hyperpigmentation.

I can however try to explain why some people get results from it. Since jojoba oil conditions skin and balances out the sebum of the skin, that can play a role in the evening of various discolorations. The less acne that you are getting, obviously the less chance you'll be getting acne marks.

I should mention though that jojoba oil isn't for everyone. It is incredibly subjective, since many people get clogged pores from it. I have oily skin, and I do not use oil-based products at all on my skin. I refuse to because I know I will breakout from them.

Another reason why people might see results from jojoba oil is because it is generally non-irriating (doesn't cause flushing, redness to most people) and that can help calm things down. Never under estimate the power of soothing ingredients, since about 40% of  most hyperpigmentation is caused by irritation/inflammation.

Also there seems to be a lack of understanding regarding acne marks and acne scars. I touched on this subject on the post How To Get Rid of Acne Marks. Acne marks (red or purple/brown/dark) are different than acne scars. Acne scarring is more of a skin texture issue. They tend to be raised bumps and texturized bumps. Acne scars are often pitted in the skin.

I do believe having healthy, balanced skin affects acne scars. Jojoba oil does hydrate enough for oily skin types to condition, and even out acne scars. So in essence, jojoba oil is more of a acne scar treatment than a acne mark or hyperpigmentation treatment.

=)

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23 Comments:

Anonymous Anonymous said...

I wish this post was made way before.. when I was using the jojoba oil. This is a really helpful post! I have used jojoba oil for my red marks since a lot (website/forum) said that it can fade them in a natural way, which is why I put it on my skin as a moisturizer morning and night... after a few months... not much difference in my red marks =/ and I notice more clogged pores... !!

It's been a while now. I am following a new regimen, with the help of your blog, to fade my red marks :) And it's working wonderfully!

May 12, 2010 at 1:03 PM  
Blogger Mileena said...

Hi!

I'm so happy your new regimen is working for you! yay! I love when people start seeing results.

You know I was going to blog about jojoba oil earlier, but I didn't think many people would care for it, but I see the net is filled with lots of exaggerated claims regarding how it lightens acne marks. So I'm glad I made it now.

<33

May 12, 2010 at 1:51 PM  
Blogger Sweet P said...

i agree! this blog has helped me lighten the few acne marks I have with DHC Acerola! :)

May 12, 2010 at 2:01 PM  
Blogger Mileena said...

That's awesome Sweet P! I love the DHC Acerola, it lightened my marks as well. It's one of my fav. overall skin brighteners out there. :)

May 12, 2010 at 2:33 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

hey mileena,
thanks for the elta md rec. i love it. way less greasy than the clinicians complex. i noticed a blog the other day about floclaire hypercreme super illumination fluid, please give me more details. whats in it? is it an effective skin lightener? or rather how effective is it.

thanks again for all you do.

May 13, 2010 at 12:02 AM  
Anonymous pp said...

Dear Mileena,
The other day as was watching this video on youtube I accidentally saw a skin whitening video by Fuzkitty!She also uploaded her day and night skin care videos.. in her skin whitening video she mentioned ellagic acid and hyaluronic acid.. whats your say about them and if you think they are helpful then can you name some products that contains these acids? you are the boss, so im relying on your opinion..what do you think about her day and night skin care regimen? i didn't feel very comfortable with it because it involved too much layering of products and too much massaging.. but you know the best.... what say ;) ? <3

May 13, 2010 at 5:30 AM  
Blogger Mileena said...

Hi,

The Floclaire hypercreme illumintation fluid is a pretty popular skin lightener. I actually first came to hear about it on The Bright Skin Forum. Many members use it or have used it for years.

I don't know the full ingredient list, but it seems to be a vitamin c product (a vitamin c derivative most likely just by looking at the packaging) that is probably at a high percentage. Most likely magnesium ascorbyl phosphate which is a very stable form of vitamin c that also lightens skin as well like L-ascorbic acid (pure vitamin c).

It also has licorice root oil and white mulberry.

By those ingredients it doesn't impress me, and initially I never recommended but many people like using it and find it to be a good skin lightener. It is geared towards dry skin types though.

Floclaire also has another lightening product, the extratone fade cream:
http://www.floclaire.com/hyexfacr.html

Both of these I've never tried, but they get great reviews from dry skin types stating it gives them results.

;)

May 13, 2010 at 7:06 AM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Hi Mileena,

I have got fancl cleansing oil and sofina sunscreen today. But i am confused everthing written is in japnese . Should i use cleansing oil with dry hands and on dry face or should i wet my face with water and then massage with cleansing oil . Help!!!

May 13, 2010 at 5:23 PM  
Blogger Mileena said...

Hey. Exciting, you got two great products today, lol.

Using a cleansing oil is a bit different than regular face washes. Yes, you use dry hands. Take a bit of the Fancol cleansing oil (as much as you need, I usually go a bit more than quarter). Rub it gently in between my palms and glide it over a dry face. Start massaging gently to remove the Sofina and makeup/other products. You can go over your eyes and have no problems with stinging or anything.

It's amazing at removing mascara/eye liner too. Anyway once your done, rinse with warm water. You will need to use a foaming face wash or another non-oil based cleanser to remove the traces of cleansing oil off your face. So I usually follow up with my trust marcelle cleanser, but any foaming cleanser or your previous cleanser can do the trick.

That's it. It's easy, please comment once your done how it went or if you like it. At first it seems odd, but trust me it's a great way of cleansing and the only way to remove the Sofina really.

<333

May 13, 2010 at 5:50 PM  
Blogger Mileena said...

Sorry I forgot to add, apply to a dry face (not a wet face). So with your sunscreen/makeup still on apply it on. =P

May 13, 2010 at 5:51 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Thank you , I will let you know how it will go with sofina sunscreen and fancl cleansing oil.
Can i use Clean & Clear Continuose oil free foaming cleanser after fancl. It has 2% salicylic acid . I have acne prone skin currently using retin a .

May 13, 2010 at 6:21 PM  
Blogger Mileena said...

Yes that is perfectly fine. Any cleanser will remove the cleansing oil. <3

May 13, 2010 at 6:36 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Hi,

I loved my new sofina sunscreen(recommended By you). I got this and fancl cleansign oil yesterday i applied sunscreen today morning at 7am . The texture is so good, madly matte (for my oily acne prone skin. Thank you sooooooooooo much for recommneding this to me i will let you this will for acne in couple of days (hoping for the best) since i tried lots others including La roche posay extreme 50+ and ac 30+ they don't even come close to this one. I just want to ask you about your opinion about my new cleanser Clean & clear CONTINUOUS CONTROL® Acne Wash foaming . It has 2% Salicylic Acid and few others ingridents . I was using neutrogen foaming wash before have been strugling from acne/ melasma from last year and currently using retin from 5-6 months. What do you think about clean & clear cleanser is that good choice or i should change to somthing else i do not want to use something harsh because of melasma(learned from you) but at same time like to get rid of acne .

Thank you

May 14, 2010 at 10:24 AM  
Blogger Mileena said...

Woo!! - I'm glad you like the Sofina. It's so matte isn't it? It's great for the summer months. Plus it has no avobenzone so you apply makeup on top if you choose to without worrying too much about compromising the protection.

Salicylic acid foaming cleansers do tend to be drying, but since it is getting warmer, the skin adapts to the air quality and humidity. I suggest to try it, to remove the fancl cleansing oil with it. If you find your skin getting dry spots, you can lightly moisturize those areas with an oil-free moisturizer (anyone can do really) You may also find your skin just overall being more dry because of the Sofina which is drying to an extent. Using a lightweight moisturizer or serum can work to offset this.

If you want to be extra cautious, applying Retin-A 10 minutes after you cleanse is ideal for really sensitive skin types (I believe it states that on the package insert as well). Anyway the reason for this is because water content doesn't always get mopped up by a towel. There are always little micro traces we cannot feel/see. The skin is very absorbant when wet, so the less likely water content is in it, the less the chance of irritation since it is not absorbing such a potent amount of the Retin-A at once. I personally do not wait, I just layer it on top of my Environ Clarifying Lotion and that's it. My skin has built tolerance to retinoids over the years though.

But, don't worry about the melasma worsening. If you ever notice your skin getting dry (because that's all that can happen honestly from using Sofina and a BHA cleanser) just compensate by using a serum or moisturizer - or better yet a lightener or some niacinamide serum.

<3

May 14, 2010 at 12:18 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Hi Mileena,

Could you pls help me find Vivite vibrance therapy at lower price . I have been using this over a month with retin a on top . I have not notice any difference for melasma patch but my overall complex look even and i would like continue with this one at least for another 3 months(don't want to use hydroquinne products). Last time i order from dermastore.ca and that cost me $149.00 but shipping was free and was no tax. I was wondering if i can order this at Amazon ( i never order anything from Amazon) i do not know if i have to pay duties and taxes to deliever to canada and which one is trusted to order. Any recommendation? and i also like to try vivite exflioting cleanser as well.
Thank you

May 14, 2010 at 12:47 PM  
Blogger Mileena said...

Hey,

Ebay is my favorite place to get deals. I've gottne some amazing ones, especially with the Skinceuticals vitamin c serum trial sizes which last for weeks and are just a couple of dollars.

I haven't searched extensively, but here is one that is much cheaper than 149:

http://cgi.ebay.com/VIVITE-VIBRANCE-THERAPY-/360259651487

from a very reputable seller too. There are more out there but this one has free shipping which is great for us Canadians.

If you don't like using ebay, check out the link to skincarerx on the right side of my blog. There are a host lighteners you can get there including the vivite vibrance therapy for around 117 I believe which is better than the 149. It's a great site to check out.

The cleanser seems alright - a BHA scrubbing one. That too can be found at skincarerx (on right side of the blog) and cheaper than dermstore.ca

<3

May 14, 2010 at 1:24 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Thank you much. Just one question do you pay duties when you ordered from this seller.

May 14, 2010 at 1:35 PM  
Blogger Mileena said...

Yes I believe you do. I think with ebay, you're only exempted if it is a gift or is worth $20 or less there is no duties.

With anything shipped internationally this is always the case. It's not much though thankfully. ;)

May 14, 2010 at 1:43 PM  
Anonymous Jess said...

I also recently bought Sofina Perfect Lucent sunscreen and I can't believe how matte it is! During the summer it gets very hot and extremely humid where I live so a greasy sunscreen just won't do. I didn't even have to use powder after I put on my makeup! I also bought DHC cleansing oil to take it off. I have a few questions though:

1. How long do you usually rub the oil on your face to make sure the sunscreen is completely off? I follow up with a foaming cleanser as well.

2. I have heard that Japanese rating systems for sunscreens are different and although the Sofina is SPF 50, it is actually more like a SPF 25. Is this true?

3. Lastly, does wearing makeup with salicylic acid in it compromise the integrity of the sunscreen?

Sorry for all the questions, thank you in advance :)

May 17, 2010 at 3:43 PM  
Blogger Mileena said...

Hi Jess =)

1) Usually about 60 seconds or more. You can see the product coming off, as well as your makeup (eyeliner etc.). Cleansing oils instantly remove makeup so a minute to 2 minutes is all you need.

Yes, and that's really important that you use a foaming cleanser/or any basic cleanser afterwards to remove any leftover cleansing oil.

2) I don't quite fully understand Japanese UVA rating systems myself. It's hard to find the actual protection, but ++++ generally points to a PPD of 10-12ish. Which is perfect for everyday wear.

The UVB rating is exactly the same as everywhere else. UVB is measured in SPF, so it is in actuality an SPF 50 sunscreen.

3) No. Not at all. Makeup can easily be applied on top of the Sofina without fear of extreme protection compromising (like an avobenzone based sunscreen would). I used to sometimes wear a BHA toner underneath my sunscreen, and no problems.

=)

May 17, 2010 at 5:43 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Hi Mileena - Which sunscreen is best for melasma skin. I have melasma on my face. What would you recommend?

November 3, 2010 at 2:00 PM  
Blogger Mileena said...

A high PPD sunscreen is highly recommended for melasma. Look for ones by Bioderma or La Roche Posay. Ingredients like Tinsorb or Mexoryl XL/SX are things to look out for.

=)

November 4, 2010 at 11:16 AM  
Anonymous jojoba oil hair loss said...

Using products with jojoba oil as well as pure jojoba oil as a hair treatment will give your hair shine, health, beauty, and length.

December 29, 2010 at 9:33 PM  

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