Why Every Other Day Application of Vitamin C Is Recommended

Photocredit: Vitaminskin & CountyMedicalLaser

Vitamin C is not only a great skin lightener and skin brightener, but it is one of the only ingredients out there that stimulates collagen production and has powerful anti-free radical damage properties. I have mentioned it many times in my blog, this topical antioxidant can work WONDERS on your skin - if used correctly. Just like retinoids, vitamin c (specifically L-ascorbic acid, the pure form most usable by the skin)is double sided. It can work in your favor, but if used too aggressively, or if you do not monitor how your skin is adjusting to it, you can end up with some irritation which can make things worse.

Just to provide a little re-cap, here are the Vitamin C-related articles I've made, if you haven't already checked them out:

The Powerful Effects of Vitamin C
Make Your Own Vitamin C Serum
Vitamin C Serums For Half The Price
Picking The Right Vitamin C Serum

I really enjoyed creating the latter article. However I realized I forgot to mention something rather important. I've known about this fact for years, since I first started using Vitamin C. I believe my first ever Vitamin C product was the Neostrata Vitamin C 10% capsules. The glowing results I got from it prompted me to research more about vitamin c and I learned quite a few interesting things.

Since irritation is the number one thing that can deter someone from using a vitamin C serum (homemade or not) finding a way to work around the potential irritation/inflammation can make a huge difference.

Well according to a study done in the Journal of The American Academy of Dermatology, researchers found that a vitamin c derivative (magnesium ascorbyl phosphate) was absorbed into the epidermis and 1.4% of the concetration remained in the skin for up to 48 hours. During the full 48 hour time frame, patients saw all the benefits of Vitamin C. Particular with skin lightening suprisingly:

- Significant lightening effect on freckles
- Evening of discolorations, black spots/dark spots in normal skin (non freckled skin)
- Overall skin lightening and skin brightening effect

Study: Inhibitory effect of magnesium L-ascorbyl-2-phosphate (VC-PMG) on melanogenesis in vitro and in vivo

In this study they utilized a magnesium ascorbyl phosphate. This is a very stable form of Vitamin C that penetrates into the skin, coating the cell wall and  the cell itself. It's ability to remain stable in various enviornments is what makes it so widely used in serums and products.

But in order to reap the benefits of magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, the product has to have a neutral pH of 5(very different to a pure L-ascorbic acid which useful at a pH of 2-3.5) to enter the skin and provide very little irritation and inflammation.

Now, while I like using all the derivatives of Vitamin C (I use a product that contains ascorbyl glucoside - Vichy Bi White Double Reveal Whitening Essence), and there is no arguing that magnesium ascorbyl phosphate is incredibly stable - it really is hard to find a highly potent magnesium ascorbyl phosphate based serum with the correct liposomes and pH level. Many companies are still clueless in their prepping of these products.

I still stand by the statement that if you want to see more potent results - be it skin brightening, or skin lightening, UVA/anti-free radical damage protection, collagen building purposes, use L-ascorbic acid. Ultimatley magnesium ascorbyl phosphate becomes L-ascorbic acid (the form most usable by the skin) as it passes through the various cellular levels. The bioavailability of magnesium ascorbyl phosphate makes it better to market, but L-ascorbic acid is the real deal.

Particularily made fresh (homemade), it can provide some profound results in skin lightening or fading of acne marks. The problem that many people face (including me) though is the irritation. The redness, the flushing - all those annoying drawbacks.

I think with L-ascorbic acid (pure vitamin C, sometimes written as just ascorbic acid on products or in the powder form you find in health food stores) every other day application is best. Technology has found great ways to preserve the freshness of a Vitamin C serum. Granted L-ascorbic acid serums do oxidize faster, but they are more efficient IMO. Only if used correctly though.

So, if you use it every other day (meaning you are still getting the benefits of Vitamin C for 48 hours, granted in the second day, the effects dwindle) it is totally fine. Plus it dramatically reduces the risk of excessive irritation. Stinging, initial redness is all normal with Vitamin C, but excessive irritation can definitley be controlled.

I don't know about any of you who have used a pure Vitamin C Serum before (LRP Active C, SkinMedica, Skinceuticals, Neostrata, Cellex-C, The Body Shop Vitamin C Night etc.) but I find it works very much like a peel. After a couple of days of usage (especially if I go overboard and use it every day) my skin temporarily darkens (very common with professional level chemical peels), then flakes in some areas and after a couple of days (through help of retinoids, cleansing) my epidermal layer is renewed for a brighter, lighter, smoother look.

Every other day application can even help with that pesky effect.

This whole notion can mean nothing to you if your skin can tolerate daily use of a vitamin c serum. There are advantages to daily application - instant brighter look, enhanced free radical damage protection etc. Obviously if applied daily, the vitamin c content in the skin is going to be more rich. But...what if your skin cannot tolerate daily application? Using it every other day is a valid option that STILL provides benefits.
From what I can gather, L-ascorbic acid (pure Vitamin C) and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (derivative) are the two of the best options. Ascorbyl Glucoside comes in a close third (more a second in my eyes, since it works well with my skin) and so does the other forms like acerola (DHC Acerola line which is so great for skin brightening).

So...if you are using a vitamin c serum and finding it hard to adjust to it, or it's causing irritation - try using it every other day. I say that a lot, but in this case you are still getting results without even applying consecutively.

:)