All About Skin Lightening: Check-In pt. 1: What's Working & What Is Everyone Using?

Wednesday, June 23, 2010

Check-In pt. 1: What's Working & What Is Everyone Using?

Since starting this blog, I have gotten to connect with hundreds of people through comments and e-mails about their skin lightening journey. Whatever their circumstances may be - melasma, lightening overall complexion, treating vitiligo, evening skin tone, fading sun damage and acne marks etc. I thoroughly enjoy reading and answering feedback and questions.

In an effort to be more interactive with my readership, I wanted to create monthly check-ins where I discuss what I am using, and hopefully you all can comment on what you all are using (be it a skin lightener, vitamin c serum, AHA peel, or sunscreen - anything that you are using or you feel is working well with your skin and is helping with skin lightening) and what is working for you. I think this will strengthen our discussions and decisions on which products are great and which ones are just duds.

Whether you comment regularily or contact me through e-mail, posting in this article what you use or what you like/works for you is going to help A LOT of people.

While you can check My Regimen section and Favorites section up top on the blog for this information, I will reiterate what I am using and what is working for me at the moment:

UNT C Clarity Ascorbic Acid Brightening Serum is in all honesty my favorite 20% vitamin c serum. Hands down, this is a fabulous product that is really making my skin look amazing and keeping it so even and luminous.

MUAC 40% Lactic Acid Peel is always a favorite of mine that I continue to use and works great for me

Skinceuticals Phyto + is perfect with Retin-A gel. Two staples in my nighttime regimen.

Kose Herbal Esthetic Whitening Mask gives me a glow like no other. I definitley get a lot of compliments on the clarity of my skin with this. It's pretty amazing. It's lightening effect is instant but the results do last if used consistently. It's been a couple of months now and I can say that the results do last. It's my fav. skin whitening mask.

That is what I am using, and fortunatley what is working for me at the moment.

How about you? <3

Labels: skin lightening, sunscreen

24 Comments:

Bella said...: Hi!

I've been silently reading your blog for the past month and have ventured onto creating a new lightening/scar-fading skincare regime.

I'm an NC25-30 and skin type: combination.

In the morning, I usually do the following:
- Wash face w/ Olay Sensitive Foaming Cleanser
- Dab some Neutrogena 3-in-1 acne treatment onto my T-zone and certain blemishes I have
- Apply either UNT C Clarity or EX White 2
- Apply Olay Intensive Brightening Serum
- Apply Olay moisturizer and Neutrogena sunscreen

At night, I would:
- Wash face w/ Olay Sensitive Foaming Cleanser
- Dab some Neutrogena 3-in-1 acne treatment onto my T-zone and certain blemishes
- Apply either Olay Regenerating Serum or Estee Lauder Night Repair Treatment
- Moisturize with either Olay night cream or emu oil

As for masks, I use the brands Silkia and My Beauty Diary whitening masks.

For the past few days, however, my cheeks seem to have gotten extremely dry and incredibly un-smooth (?) - and no longer plump. And everytime that I do apply UNT Vit C / Ex White 2, my face would be - hmm, how would I describe this - tight and sticky and dry.

I thought it would my constant use of Neutrogena's 3-in-1 acne treatment (which had 2% salicylic acid) so I stopped using it in the morning ~ however, I still have very dry cheeks and an oily T-zone.

Do you have any suggestions on how to moisturize my dry cheeks without adding extra oil onto my already combo skin and possibly breaking me out?

Oh and also, I have pitted scars (from chickenpox years ago) and some acne scars - hoping to fade many of them with copper peptides (specifically SkinBiology's) and emu oil? What do you think about their effectiveness?; June 23, 2010 at 4:20 PM
Mileena said...: Hi Bella!

It's a solid regimen you got there. The UNT is a bit sticky and not moisturizing at all I know. There are actually no rich, emollient ingredients in it which is good for super oily skin types like me, but for normal or even combination skin types it can be a little uncomfortable.

The dryness on your cheeks (which is where I usually get my dryness) is from the UNT and the usage of BHA. Your cheeks probably need extra moisture. I use a moisturizer from time to time solely on my dry spots, such as Olay Regenerist which honestly gets rid of the flakies/tightness of my cheeks. Cerave PM or Complex 15 are great at quenching dry, tight skin. It can be used before or after your products (but not after sunscreen, sunscreen is always last). Apply it only to your dry areas since it is very moisturizing. Overtime this should help offset the excessive dryness in your cheeks.

Using a yogurt mask (which has lactic acid in it) can help gently exfoliate and smooth out your skin too once or twice a week. Love the glow it gives too.

Eh...on copper peptides. Iknow I've mentioned them before, but a lot of research points out how they can be a bit overbearing on the skin and actually degrade the barrier function of the skin. Rough texture, increased flushing and sensitivity etc.

Copper peptides will also take awhile to help repair the pitted scars. Longer than an average treatment.

Emu oil is amazing at treating damaged skin texture, so it can help a lot. Other than that, spot treating the area with glycolic acid or lactic acid can help a lot. The sloughing off of dead skin cells combined with hydration (or emu oil) can really help even things out. OTC treatments are incredibly effective against pitted scars. Asking a derm about treatment options of that is something I recommend if this doesn't work out.

=); June 23, 2010 at 4:59 PM
Anonymous said...: hi mileena,

i'm using the fair and flawless facial Whitening and rejuvenating Fluid. It's working pretty good, i think i'm about half a shade lighter but nowhere close where I want to be. It has sepiwhite in it and it doesn't give me acne at all. i also wear olay spf 30 during the day on top. so far so good.; June 23, 2010 at 5:11 PM
Anonymous said...: Hi,

AM
Aveeno Positively Radiant Cleanser
AOX 20 (every other day)
Makari Day Cream
A little dab of Neutrogena Oil Free Moisture
Elta MD UV Clear Sunscreen (best sunscreen so far but has a really low PPD of 5)

PM
Aveeno cleanser
Witch Hazel to tone (every other day)
BHA 2% liquid (every other day) only on acne areas
Phyto+
Dab of Neutrogena oil free moisture

Queen Helene Mint Mask once a week.

So far my acne has subsided. Spots are slowly fading. however i do get an occasionally bump (clogged pore).. It usually dries up after a few days

Question for u tho, i still have some small bumps (flesh colored) around my chin. they are small. not noticable but i can feel when i cleanse.
BHA 2% or queen helene dont seem to be reducing them by much, they are reducing a little bit but they are NOT totally gone.

why is this? what can i do differently? I use the maks once a week. should i leave a dab of mask on the bumps overnight?

i dont normally have acne prone skin. this was caused by use of makari cream. but i was using 2x a day then. i have since reduced to 1 x a day or every other day; June 24, 2010 at 1:40 PM
Mileena said...: Great regimen you have there! The flesh colored bumps are clogged pores and you're right,most likely from Makari Day Cream. You may want to use the BHA 2% Liquid everyday.

I know for me, I sometimes get a clogged pores or two if I miss using a retinoid for just one night.

Same thing for the Queen Helen Masque, it should help a bit in offsetting the bumps. Spot treating with it maybe one or two extra times a week atnight can help. The truth is if these methods don't fully stop the clogged pores, you'll have to avoid using the Day Cream around the chin area (very clogged prone/acne prone region btw).

=); June 24, 2010 at 2:18 PM
Anonymous said...: U bring up a good point. that is to stop use of the makari cream around my chin. i never thot of that... but if i do, wldnt that cause unevenness in the lightening on my face?; June 25, 2010 at 7:38 AM
Anonymous said...: Hi.. am seriously considering getting the Kose Herbal Esthetic Whitening Mask you did a review on.. but the price is soo steep.

i was looking thru the products ingredients. it NOT oil free. how does your skin tolerate this since you are acne prone and oily like me.

also, how often do u use this? is this considered a "strong" lightener? how does this possibly lighten, if it's only on your face for 15 mins?; June 25, 2010 at 8:24 AM
Anonymous said...: Hi Mileena!

AM:
Marcelle Gentle Foaming Wash
Shiseido Alcohol-Free Toner
UNT C Clarity
Lush Vanishing Cream Moisturizer (on dry spots)
Shiseido SPF33 Sunscreen

PM:
Shu Uemura Cleansing Oil
Marcelle Gentle Foaming Wash
Shiseido Alcohol-Free Toner
Retin-A Cream
Lush Vanishing Cream Moisturizer
UNT EX White Body Lotion (on feet, arms, shoulders - where I am tanned)

I'm not sure if this regimen has had any effect so far as I've only been using it for a few weeks. Perhaps on my face I am seeing a little change, but not so sure about my body...

However, I'm still getting pesky blackheads and clogged pores. Also there are bumps under my skin that seem to have been stuck there for as long as I remember but no matter what I do, it doesn't come out/go away - trust me, I've gone so far as to even try squeezing :( So I've been wondering if I should invest in something else for that, or if I just haven't been using the Retin-A long enough since it's only been a few weeks.

I've heard some great things about the Skinceuticals Phyto+ but it's simply out of my budget, is there any cheaper alternative that is hopefully available in stores (I try to avoid ordering online if possible) that you can recommend?; June 25, 2010 at 10:45 AM
Mileena said...: Well, I would think uneveness would be more apparent from acne/rough texture moreso than this. The other lighters and such should compensate.

If you don't want to completley give up using Makari Day Cream where you are acne prone, you can apply a thin layer of it there and limit it to at least 2-3 times a week usage there. Uneveness will not occur this way as that area will eventually and quickly catch up to the rest, especially if you are exfoliating and protecting your skin. ;); June 25, 2010 at 1:57 PM
Mileena said...: Not all non-oil free products are comedogenic. I even use a cleansing oil with no troubles. If something as gentle as the Kose whitening mask is left on for just 15 minutes there is no risk. It's a great product for sensitive skin, I find it really soothes my skin if I'm 'over retinoided' (a term I use if my skin feels it needs something gentle, since Retin-a is tough stuff) especially during fall or winter.

The lightening effect of masks is similar to that of soaps. It is from cumulative usage. Masks are more potent than regular leave-on products, so in other words they are weekly treatments you infuse your skin with. Overtime the benefits last.

The good thing is the Kose mask does give long lasting effects as well as an intense brightening, smoothing and evening effec that really makes your skin look amazing. It's great to use before an event or something.

If it's out of your budget I would suggest alternatve masks like the DIY yogurt + aspirin mask (lactic acid + pore exfoliation). There is also a brightening/whitening mask by Palmer's Skin Success line I've seen at a few drugstores (as well drugstore.com) that looks pretty good. =); June 25, 2010 at 2:35 PM
Mileena said...: You're routine is awesome, but I will say that I REALLY do not like Retin-A cream. The gel version is far superior, the cream version has comedogenic ingredients in it's base (inactives) which is so ironic and silly since it's for acne prone skin.

You shouldn't expect real results until week 4. I always give products a good chance even if I'm exfoliating often. Melanin inhibition takes time, even with potent bleachers like HQ. But especially with natural, botanical lighteners.

The pesky blackheads can be treated with BHA, or kaolin clay masks and ofcourse Retin-A gel. For me it's Retin-A that does it, but BHA does a wonderful job since it exfoliates from within the pore and out. Kaolin Clay masks like Queen Helen Masque are great at mopping up excess oil which are the main root of blackheads (oxidized sebum).

The clogged pores you are getting can be coming from two places: The Retin-A cream itself, since it's not always acne prone skin type friendly OR the Shiseido sunscreen. A lot of times sunscreen is the culprit. I used to really like the Shiseido SPF 50, but I found it constantly gave me a zit or two on my forehead which I just couldn't tolerate, so I looked elsewhere and found the fabulous Sofina sunscreen which is my fav.

Continue using the UNT on your body, and make sure to keep up with exfoliation there either by a luffa or whatever method you exfoliate the skin on your body. That will help hasten things up and allow the UNT to penetrate depper. It takes time, but results should come.

=); June 25, 2010 at 2:43 PM
Anonymous said...: Ah, I was prescribed the Retin-A cream by my derm, is the gel version available only through prescription as well? And well anyways, it's not so much that I'm getting new ones (though I'm not 100% sure on that), it's just that it's not being treated.

Is there a BHA product you would recommend, and is it okay to use it with Retin-A or will that be overload?

Thanks! :); June 26, 2010 at 6:50 PM
Mileena said...: You can use BHA with Retin-A. Some people find it helps increase the penetration of the Retin-A.

My favorite BHA products are:

Paula's Choice 2% BHA Liquid (direct link, on the side bar under the Shop label)

or

Stridex pads.

There are others, but those 2 are my favs, since they got the correct pH of salicylic acid so it actually penetrates the pores.

=); June 26, 2010 at 8:01 PM
Anonymous said...: Oh thank you! May I ask where Paula's Choice 2% BHA Liquid would go in my regimen and either morning/night? Would I have to wait before applying whatever products that come after it? Would it be available somewhere local like Shopper's Drug Mart?; June 27, 2010 at 12:52 PM
Mileena said...: A BHA can be applied anytime before leave-on products, so either in the day or night.

When I used to use PC's Liquid, I would use it in the daytime before my sunscreen. Some people like to use it at night, if they use their lightening product at night since BHA helps to increase the penetration/efficacy of the product (deeper into the pores).

Unfortunatley it's not available at Shoppers. There are some good BHA products though at Shoppers like Neostrata's AHA/BHA Toner (which is similar to the PC 2% Liquid). I love that one.

=); June 27, 2010 at 4:20 PM
Mileena said...: Correction: A BHA 'toner' or 'liquid' should be applied before leave-on products. ;P; June 27, 2010 at 4:23 PM
Anonymous said...: Hi Mileena

I bought Paula's Choice2% Liquid , during AM my Regimen is Vit C DIY toner followed by Sunblock,now when should i apply PC BHA before or after Vit C?

During PM can i apply PC followed by Retin-A and then my lightner?

Thanks; June 28, 2010 at 5:42 PM
Anonymous said...: Hi Mileena,

What are other strong botantical lighteners, other than makari or hypercreme for oily type skin.

Thanks; June 29, 2010 at 8:01 AM
Mileena said...: - Paul & Joe Whitening Serum
- UNT Ex White 2
- Skinceuticals Phyto+ or Cosmetic SKin Solution Phyto+
- Exuviance Brightening Gel
- Kinerase Photofacial
- Fair & Flawless
- Arcona Lightening Drops

There's a lot to choose from. These are all not as strong as Makari, but great for oily or acne prone skin types and do work.; June 29, 2010 at 2:51 PM
Mileena said...: Hi!

If you plan on using the BHA during the daytime it would be like this:

AM:
- Cleanse
- Apply BHA liquid
* wait a full 15 minutes to allow pH of skin to neutralize*
- apply vitamin c
- apply sunscreen

(so the only waiting time is between the BHA and vitamin c)

For nighttime, it can go either way. It can be BHA liquid, then lightener, then Retin-A on top OR BHA liquid, Retin-A and lightener on top. It doesn't make a difference ;); June 29, 2010 at 2:55 PM
Anonymous said...: Hi Mileena

I use Bioderma White Objective lightening serum , it has Vit C and gycolic acid too i guess..can i apply BHA wait for 15 mins then the Bioderma followed by Retin-A?

Thanks; June 29, 2010 at 7:38 PM
Mileena said...: Yes. That is fine, BHA liquid, wait 15 minutes Bioderma and Retin-A gel.

So the only waiting time is between the BHA and C+AHA (Bioderma).

=); June 29, 2010 at 7:57 PM
Anonymous said...: Hi Mileena

Ok , i am a lil confused here, usually there is a waiting period (15-20 mins) between Vitc and the following aha or lightener right?...why is it any different when BHA is used?

You should be applauded for a lot of things Mileena , your knowledge,patience,your zeal to help others.

Thanks.; June 29, 2010 at 10:54 PM
Mileena said...: I'm glad you brought this up, the difference is minor but to cancel out any excess irritation waiting an extra 15 minutes for the BHA is usually what I do when using vitamin c. BHA does have a slightly lower pH than alpha hydroxy acids like glycolic acid or lactic acid.

The only time you must wait no matter what is with niacinamide. Since the pH of BHA can turn niacinamide into niacin which can cause flushing.

Thank you btw for the kind comments. I love doing this =D; June 30, 2010 at 11:29 AM

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All About Skin Lightening

Wednesday, June 23, 2010

Check-In pt. 1: What's Working & What Is Everyone Using?

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