Sepiwhite: Best Skin Lightening Ingredient?

It seems as of late, all the rage in the skin lightening community is about Sepiwhite (undecylenoyl phenylalanine). Not only in this community, but in the dermatology world, where a couple of studies have been conducted proving its effectiveness at treating pigmentation concerns (hyperpigmentation, age spots, uneven skin tone, overall sun damage).

Now, you all know that I love to research about skin lightening. It's the main reason why I've gotten lighter. I applied facts and not marketing claims into my skin regimen and saw visible change.

For those who have never heard of sepiwhite before, I'll clue you in here about its background. Its composition is castor oil and the amino acid, phenylalanine. It is a chemical ingredient that has a very unique way of lightening the skin.

What initially interested me about sepiwhite was that its mechanism of lightening the skin was different than most standard (or well known) skin lighteners. Instead of just inhibiting the enzyme responsible for melanin creation, or the actual transfer of melanocytes, sepiwhite inhibits the alpha-melanocyte stimulating hormone (MSH). That is a big revelation. I mean, to actually inhibit the hormone responsible for triggering the enzyme response and actual dispersion and transfer of melanin is a big deal. With this, skin lightening can be done in a complete process (stopping the hormone, in turn the enzyme and actual melanin production = lighter skin).Most skin lighteners do not have the ability to do this, so once this fact was proven through clinical studies many skin bleaching companies (Fair & Flawless to name the most popular) utilized the ingredient in their products and wrote it off as the ultimate vehicle for skin lightening.
 
There is no arguing with facts. There are two studies (there could be more, but these are the two that are the most publicized) that prove the effectiveness of sepiwhite. The first one I read was from P&G beauty (makers of Olay). P&G also published the breakthrough study back in 2006 about the skin lightening effects of niacinamide and N-acetyl glucosamine combination. In a new study, it is proven that the combination of undecylenoyl phenylalanine, N-acetyl glucosamine and niacinamide show an additive effect in reducing melanin production without any cytotoxicity.
 
"Currently, niacinamide and N-acetyl glucosamine work by interrupting the melanin synthesis pathway. Undecylenoyl phenylalanine works as an MSH (melanin stimulating hormone) antagonist, preventing the melanin synthesis from starting. "

- P&G Beauty Breakthrough in Hyperpigmentation

The other study I read, which was very similar but more detailed was one that combined the two different mechanisms of melanin inhibition (niacinamide which inhibits melanin transfer, and the other being sepiwhite which inhibits the hormone). In a 10 week, double blind study, women of different ethnic backgrounds did a split face test using just single ingredients (meaning just niacinamide on one side of their face, and just sepiwhite on another woman's face) and combination (1% sepiwhite + 5% niacinamide). Basically the results proved that the combination of sepiwhite and niacinamide produces a profound synergy of skin lightening and anti-hyperpigmentation, moreso than if you were to use each ingredient seperately. Here is the link to the study:

Reduction in the appearance of facial hyperpigmentation by topical N-undecyl-10-enoyl-L-phenylalanine and its combination with niacinamide.

I am enthralled by the ability of sepiwhite. It's mechanism of skin lightening is powerful, however I don't think the claims that are being made by companies and on message boards stating that it alone will produce results similar to hydroquinone (without the risks) is to be taken seriously. People need to pay more attention to facts - the actual visible lightening of the skin is ultimately achieved if you combine the sepiwhite with niacinamide.

Now I haven't really checked out the full ingredients of Fair & Flawless products, but from what I've seen from their popular products - there is no combination of these two ingredients.

I'm not saying that sepiwhite alone can't lighten skin, but remember it's way of lightening the skin is by inhibiting the hormone responsible for melanin. There is no cream, serum or pill or anything that 100% ensures a complete inhibition. Obviously some melanocyte acitivity will be created. I can probably only think of one ingredient out there that can have a 100% guarantee and that is monobenzone, and that kills the entire melanin production process so your left with no melanin, which is not skin lightening. That is a notion called treating vitiligo.

I digress. The study shows that using either niacinamide alone or sepiwhite alone doesn't produce satisfactory enough results as the combination of the two.

I researched to find good products that have this combination and I only found two (that are semi-decent)

Environ Evenescence Clarifying Lotion - combines niacinamide + sepiwhite, and seems like the best product to choose if you want to see if sepiwhite can work for you.

Olay Pro X Discoloration Fighting Concentration - has the combination, but don't know how it fares since reviews are very hit or miss. I'm guessing it has lower concentrations.


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