Oxidized Vitamin C's Effect On Your Skin

Photo Credit: Dermstore

L-ascorbic acid is the pure form of Vitamin C, and I've blogged several times about how effective vitamin c is (especially in this form) to your skin, specifically with skin lightening.

Being an antioxidant, and also being in a pure form, l-ascorbic acid is highly unstable. Fortunatley most companies like La Roche Posay, Vichy, SkinMedica, Skinceuticals and UNT have great packaging that helps to keep the vitamin c 'stable' as long as possible. However, when vitamin c oxidizes it can actually cause a lot of damage to the skin. Not just pigmentation damage, but other skin-related issues.

When vitamin c oxidizes, it turns into a brownish/dark gold color. I've seen it before, many times when I used the original Vichy Bi White Corrective Care. Near the end of using it, I accidently pierced the metal tube and within 24 hours when I squeezed out a little bit of product I noticed the serum became a darker color. Thankfully I knew enough back then to not apply it on my skin since I knew it had oxidized.

When you apply oxidized vitamin c to your skin, a host of problems can happen. Serious problems. According to this wonderful article from Melbourne Dermatology here are the effects:

• fostering decreased collagen synthesis;
• encouraging increased collagen breakdown;
• creating a skin environment characterized by enhanced metalloproteinase activity, responsible for rapid and unnecessary depletion of: peptides; growth factors; antioxidant nutrients and a plethora of other biologically essential molecules too poorly understood to warrant extensive modification to their volume and function.

No doubt that application of oxidized vitamin c serums would have a negative effect on skin lightening. Oxidized vitamin c uses up the glucose powered metabolic process in the skin, depleting alpha lipoic acid and glutathinone levels. It also can contribute to further darkening of dark spots, acne marks and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. A strong contrast between non-oxidized vitamin c application and oxidized vitamin c is the lack of instant brightening. Oxidized vitamin c will cause an overall dull complexion right away.

L-ascorbic acid serums in metal tubes like La Roche Posay and Vichy are most at risk at becoming prematurely oxidized since I find when the product is almost finished, and you apply a lot of pressure, the metal tube can pierce through and cause the serum to become exposed to excessive air. A tip to work around this is to squeeze from the bottom tip always, and never apply too much pressure.

Synthetic forms of vitamin c like magnesium ascorbyl phosphate or ascorbyl glucoside do not carry this strong oxidation risk.

People who use DIY Vitamin C serums are getting the most fresh source of L-ascorbic acid. Especially if they do the water + ascorbic acid crystals/powder method, and make it fresh daily. That is a sure way to prevent any premature oxidation from happening.

There is nothing wrong with using ready-made, packaged vitamin c serums. Just be careful and know that packaging is super important. Keep it away from sunlight and store in a cool, dark place.

I highly recommend reading this article, it is incredibly eye opening. Especially for anyone using vitamin c:

 

Effects of Oxidized and Denatured Ascorbic Acid on Skin

Be well

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