Vitamin C Derivatives

Vitamin C derivatives are fast becoming the epitome of effective vitamin c serums. Research shows that various forms of vitamin c (other than the natural L-ascorbic acid form) can provide the same skin benefits (collagen production, melanin inhibition (skin lightening), free radical damage protection) as pure vitamin C. L-ascorbic acid (unmodified, pure vitamin C) is ultimately what the derivatives convert to when travelling through the skin, but it’s their ability to withstand oxidation that gets the favorable standing in the cosmetic world.

I posted awhile ago how oxidized vitamin c can cause major damage to the skin in Oxidized Vitamin C’s Effect On Your Skin. Vitamin C derivatives are in a much more stable vehicle and offer about 90 percent less chance of premature oxidation than L-ascorbic acid serums. The only disadvantage to most vitamin c derivatives is their limitations in penetrating the skin. L-ascorbic acid (whether water based or anhydrous) penetrates the skin very well and delivers the Vitamin C directly into the stratum corneum. Vitamin C derivatives must convert in the skin’s layers into L-ascorbic acid, and unfortunately not all forms manage to do so very well.

Most over the counter L-ascorbic acid serums are fairly good though, but have a very short shelf-life. Generally a vitamin c serum shouldn’t be used after 6 months (if it’s been opened). The exposure to air and light slowly degrade and oxidize the serum. Granted vitamin c serums in vacuum sealed bottles, metal tubes or amber/dark blue tinted dropper bottles prevent premature oxidation very well – they can only do so much after a long period of time.

If you prefer using pure L-ascorbic acid and are extremely worried about oxidation then DIY vitamin c serums honestly are the best way to go. DIY vitamin C serums are by far the most effective treatment out there. Making a batch with propylene glycol or fresh daily with water ensures that pure L-ascorbic acid does not oxidize before application.

Water based L-ascorbic acid serums generally oxidize much faster (that is why when doing the DIY version, you make it fresh daily). Anhydrous formulas (silicone based) last much longer but not many acne prone skin types can tolerate them.

Vitamin C derivatives are the choice for sensitive skin types. They are significantly less irritating than L-ascorbic acid and have a longer shelf life.

But does that mean they are just as effective?

It really depends; there are studies out there showing that magnesium ascorbyl phosphate at 10 percent concentration can provide the same skin brightening, lightening and collagen building abilities as L-ascorbic acid.

The three most common vitamin c derivatives out there are Ascorbyl palmitate, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate and Ascorbyl Tetra-isopalmitoyl.

As I stated above, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate has been proven to be a very effective, gentle vitamin c alternative. Its ability to suppress melanin synthesis (enzyme suppression) is quite strong much like pure L-ascorbic acid, and needs to be at least 10 percent or higher to give this effect. This derivative penetrates deep into the lower layers of the skin and converts into pure vitamin c quite well. Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate is more effective than any other common vitamin c derivative as proved in this study featured in Melbourne Dermatology

Ascorbyl Palmtiate is the most controversial and has the most mixed studies surrounding it. At low concentrations it works as best as it is able to penetrate into the skin, but not as efficiently or effectively as Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate. There is also study that shows that it can be slightly cytotoxic if not used with sunscreen.

Ascorbyl Tetra-Isopalmitoyl is commonly known as super vitamin c in many Asian brand skin brighteners and lighteners. Like other forms of vitamin c, it is pH neutral and is very non-irritating. This form is ironically one of the most poor penetrating forms out there and needs to be at a very low (3 percent) concentration to penetrate the skin and in a lipid soluble form (layering water based or soluble products over and under can dramatically compromise its efficacy). That amount is too little to provide any melanin inhibition or free radical scavenging properties.

All in all, both pure vitamin c serums and vitamin c derivative serums have their pros and cons. You must shop smart when picking the right vitamin c serum. If you want to go the pure route, look for ones in amber tinted dropper bottles or metal tubes. Make sure to store them in cool, dry, dark places. If you have sensitive skin and are interested in adding a vitamin c derivative into your skin lightening regimen - go for magnesium ascorbyl phosphate.