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Monday, March 1, 2010

Featured Ingredient: Rumex Extract

One of the most new skin lightening ingredients to be discovered is rumex extract. It is derived from the Rumex Genus plants. What's  exciting is that rumex extract is shown to be a highly effective tyrosinase inhibitor (enzyme that produces skin color), significantly outperforming hydroquinone and arbutin (in the area of inhibiting tyrosinase, not disruption of melanin transfer, but still very impressive on that front as well) while maintaining efficacy comparable to kojic acid also can be created into a synergy, if combined with other enzyme inhibitors like kojic acid and arbutin.

I talk a lot about various tyrosinase inhibitors on my blog, but how crucial are they to a skin lightening or even a skin brightening regimen? Well, tyrsoinase inhibition suppresses the formation of unwanted pigmentation, such as dark spots and blotchy, uneven skin tone. The melanin that bypasses the rumex extract goes on to the process of melanogenesis. That is where skin lightening ingredients that disrupt the transfer of melanin come in (bearberry extract, niacinamide, soy, paper mulberry etc.) Check my new FAQ section up top for more on this.

Inhibiting tyrosinase also reduces the creation of new pigment -  particular UV induced pigmentation. Basically, reduce the tyrosinase, and you reduce the amount of melanin that gets produced.

Combining rumex extract with other enzyme inhibitors ensures strong suppression of dark spots or any area of your skin that has concentrated melanin or blotchiness. Rumex extract on its own works very well though, so it doesn't need other tyrsoinase inhibiting ingredients to see visible results.

Like with most skin lighteners however, the efficacy of rumex extract is strengthened when in the presence of an exfoliant like AHA, BHA or a retinoid. This ensures penetration, a quicker skin lightening process and removal of old, pigmented cells.

Interesting Articles/Studies to read:

Tyrosinase Inhibitors: Activity of a Rumex Extract in Combination with Kojic Acid and Arbutin

Rumex Extract Background

Tyrosinase Inhibitors from Plants

Recommended products that contain Rumex Extract:

Reversa Anti-Spot Night Care

Reversa UV Anti-Spot Lightening Cream <--not a valid sunscreen. Treat it as a mild skin lightener, not a sunscreen product. You need to use a seperate, broad spectrum sunscreen during the day that has a decent PPD rating (UVA protection).

Surely White Body Lightening Lotion


I have personally tried the Reversa Anti-Spot Night Care, and found that it gave some decent results. I only used it for a short amount of time, but I think if implemented into a skin regimen that also has skin lightening ingredients that stop melanin transfer (bearberry extract for example) I think it could work fabulously. Not even at the same time, as long as there is one ingredient suppressing tyrosinase and another ingredient (somewhere in your regimen) that inhibits melanin transfer.

I now have a pretty balanced skin lightening regimen, but if I introduced rumex extract into my routine now, I think I would get some impressive results since I use Skinceuticals Phyto +. But alas, I don't have anywhere to put the Reversa since I mix my Phyto+ with Retin-A and use Vichy Bi White Whitening Essence in the daytime. Too many products already, LOL!

<3

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11 Comments:

Anonymous Anonymous said...

Hi Mileena,

What do you think about Vivite Vibrance Therapy for melasma that i have on my cheeks can this be used with Retin a micro at night is this ok for oily acne skin as well. and do you know where can i purchase this in vancouver . thanks

March 2, 2010 at 2:11 PM  
Blogger Mileena said...

Hey,

Actually funny you mention the Vivite Vibrance Therapy, I was reading an article about it and melasma in Allure magazine. Go figure.

Apparently in the study, women who used it found it even more superior to hydroquinone.

It can be used with Retin-A micro and also even in the daytime underneath your sunscreen.

Most good skin lighteners are odered online. I'm not sure where to purchase this in Vancouver, let alone in Canada. Trusted sites like drugstore.com, skincarerx.com as well as ebay and amazon carry it though. You can maybe try some department stores near you, call them to see if they feature the Vivite line.

=)

March 2, 2010 at 2:48 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Thank you

March 2, 2010 at 2:55 PM  
Blogger Mileena said...

Your welcome.

It's frustrating that all the good products like Phyto +, Bioderma White Objective, DDF brightening cleanser and the Vivite are not readily available in drustores and such. I wish they were lol. Shoppers Drug Mart does have some great things though - Vichy Bi White, LRP Active C line, Neostrata products, and also the Reversa products which have rumex.

So I guess we are a little lucky living in Canada. I heard the stores in the US like CVS and such don't even carry Vichy, LRP, Avene and all these great product lines. So I guess we are a little lucky. ;)

March 2, 2010 at 3:08 PM  
Anonymous Jess said...

As someone in the US I can vouch for that! I want to try the Vichy line, but I can't find it anywhere, even online. I'm happy with the Phyto + I'm using now though. The only lightener you can find in the drugstores here is Ambi Fade Cream, which contains the dreaded hydroquinone. That's what I'm using to fade the hyperpigmentation on my arm. Thanks to this lovely site I know that hydroquinone is best for spot treatment and not as an all over lightener. :)

March 2, 2010 at 3:38 PM  
Blogger Mileena said...

Aw, thanks Jess!

I'm glad the Phyto+ is giving you results. :O)

March 2, 2010 at 4:11 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Hi Mileena,

Yay, I guess we are a lucky living in Canada. I need your opinion do you think Vivite Vibrance Therapy superior that UNT terma Acid for melasma or not and is Vivite Vibrance Therapy safer than hydroquionne and can be used safely for long term this product seems really promsingly but when i was searching there website there's not much information about melasma result . I really like using vichy Bi white essc by the way. you are great

March 3, 2010 at 10:25 AM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Hi Mileena,

Can I use Vibrance Therapy in the morning first, then second put on Skinceuticals Phloretin CF, then a moisturizer and sunscreen? Or would Phloretin CF go on first, under Vivite? I’m wondering how to add Vibrance Therapy in to my routine correctly. Also, how does it interact with Tretinoin/Retin-A

March 3, 2010 at 11:33 AM  
Blogger Mileena said...

Hi

Comparing just by ingredients I can tell you that the Vivite Vibrance will probably give you better results for your melasma than the UNT (which is still pretty decent IMO). The reason being since it has AHAs as well as a host of lighteners like licorice and mulberry etc. The AHAs act like a penetration enhancer which allow the active ingredients to work in deep into the straum corneum (lower layer of the skin).

And plus there is an article in Allure magazine boasting about how it faded some women's melasma patches. It sounds exciting, but the product is a bit pricey which kinda is a drawback to it.

I wouldn't use the Vivite Vibrance Therapy in the daytime since you are already using other products. I don't know, unless you can tolerate layering so much than I guess it is fine. The Vivite does have a small amount of retinol in it, but that is a much weaker form to pure retinoic acid (tretinoin) and probably won't cause any problems, especially since you use sunscreen anyway.

So it can be used day or night. I would suggest at night. It can be used on it's own at night as well, since it exfoliates your skin with the glycolic acid. It can be combined with Retin-A (layered underneath or mixed) for a stronger lightening/exfoliating effect.

=)

March 3, 2010 at 11:41 AM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Hi I have pigmentation on my cheeks which occured when using Lustra Af & Reversa without sunblock stupid.... I had been using the Lustra for 2 yrs my skin was great (no pigmentation on cheeks), then I switched to Reversa anti spot cream day cream and anti spot night cream my cheeks turned brown. when to dermatologist he recommended 6 lactic peels.
My question is will reversa make my pigmentation go away or should I go back to Lustra if not which is best for light Indian skin.
Thanks

March 5, 2010 at 2:55 PM  
Blogger Mileena said...

Hi,

I'm glad you asked this question, since I was just going to update this post about it. The Reversa Lightening Day Cream is best to be used as a mild skin lightener, not a sunscreen. It is actually not a stable sunscreen, so when it is exposed in sunlight the active sunscreen ingredients in it break down. Silly I know, I don't understand why companies do this. Nowadays most companies stablizie their sunscreens with proper ingredients.

I think the brown spots appeared since the high AHA content in the Reversa products, combined with the ineffective sunscreen properties of the day cream cause your skin to produce excess darker melanin. It's very common. So pretty much it's like a repeat of what happened when you used the Lustra AF & Reversa without sunblock.

Your derm suggests lactic acid peels...that can help but right now the most important thing is to get a good sunscreen so further darkening cannot occur and you can prevent any more damage. Just off the top of my head, some good sunscreens (and each of them are great IMO):

Aveeno ultra calming SPF 30
Elta MD UV CLear SPF 45
Banana Boat Dri-Block SPF 30
Neutrogena Healthy Defense Helioplex SPF 45
La Roche Posay Anthelios AC 30

Anyway you can resume using Lustra again, but only the dark spots on your cheeks. I don't ever recommend using HQ products as all over face treatments. So you can return to using it (since your skin responded so well to it prior) for 6 months and that's it and use it primarily at night. You can use the Reversa Anti Spot Night Care alongside with it.

To do that, apply the Reversa Anti Spot Night Care first (since it has low pH). Wait a full 30 minutes (to allow skin to neutralize back to 5.5) and apply the Lustra on the cheek area.

Once or twice a week you can use the Olay Microdermabrasion + Peel kit which has lactic acid and is a wonderful, gentle, effective product IMO. You may see some lightening from that alone.

Keep at it, and hopefully it will all knock out the dark spots.

<3

March 5, 2010 at 3:20 PM  

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