Retinoids & Skin Lightening Part 3: Purging Stage

Photo Credit: EverydayHealth

Probably the most frequently asked about and feared (lol, it's understandable) aspect of retinoid usage is the purging stage. Skin purging occurs in the first few weeks (generally 2-3 weeks) of using a retinoid. During this time, microcomedones, trapped sebum, bacteria and dead skin cells rise to the surface layers of the skin (epidermis) and breakouts occur. At first it can be really discouraging to see these initial breakouts, but you must stick with it. Eventually it will subside and the benefits of retinoid use will begin to show (rapid clearing of acne).

Fortunatley not everybody experiences the purging stage, and it varies in degree of severity from person to person. Most dermatologists agree that if a person did not have any acne to begin with, there will be a very little chance of purging to happen. On the other hand, the more severe your acne is to begin with, the breakouts from purging might be as well.

A big misconception out there with retinoid purging is that many people confuse it with allergic reactions. There is a distinct difference between the two. First off, if the 'breakouts' or bumps last for more than a month, then chances are that it is not your skin purging (though it still can be, but in most cases one month is a long time to be purging. If it is, then perhaps re-evaluate your regimen to see what might be clogging your pores). It is most likely an allergy or irritation, dermatitis. Rashes and flushing is not something that should be seen with retinoid use - especially if you are using it correctly (using a little more than a pea sized, being gentle with your skin etc.). Very rapid reactions (tiny little bumps within the first night you use it) is also a sign of an allergy or extreme skin irritation.

If it is indeed an allergic reaction, then it is best to discontinue usage of the retinoid.

I've gotten a few dozen messages of people being really discouraged during the purging stage. I truly understand how it is since I went through it as well, but it's important to continue using sunscreen everyday. A lot people think if they stop using sunscreen or 'heavy' products on their skin it will calm the situation. You have to undertstand that the purging stage is a process that has to happen to renew the skin and that you must stick it out whilst using sun protection. If not, then you will be doing more harm than good as retinoids make skin sun sensitive and this wearing no sunscreen can cause acne marks as well as damper on your skin lightening heavily.

A great way to speed up the purging process and minimize the severity of pimples and clogged pores that occur is to use a great AHA/BHA lotion. It can be either AHA or BHA, but I have a slight preference for BHA (salicylic acid) since it works so well at clearing out pores. Weekly kaolin clay masks that suck up sebum in the the pores is great too, but I will caution to use with caution and only once a week as you may find your skin over drying or drying out. Follow up with a serum or moisturizer when you use these.

BHA can be used with retinoids directly. I like AHA/BHA toners/liquids since they are very convenient to use and place in your regimen before applying products.

Lastly, I just wanted to mention that purging occurs usually with just rx retinoids. Certain OTC retinoids like retinaldehyde products (Avene Diacneal) which are strong can cause skin purging but OTC retinol products are usually too weak to do anything.