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Retinoids & Skin Lightening Part 4: Mixing & Buffering A Retinoid

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Tuesday, August 10, 2010

Retinoids & Skin Lightening Part 4: Mixing & Buffering A Retinoid

Mixing and buffering a retinoid is a great way to not only reduce irritation, but also get a synergy of skin lightening. I mix my retinoid every night with either a bland serum/moisturizer or a botanical lightener and I see wonderful results.

For those who do not know what/how mixing or buffering a retinoid works I will explain in this installment of Retinoids & Skin Lightening. I will begin with mixing/diluting:

Mixing a skin lightener or moisturizer with your rx retinoid at night can do a lot for your skin. Since skin lighteners always work better when exfoliation is involved, more of the active ingredient is going to be absorbed deeper into the lower levels of the skin. That is one benefit from this method. The other one is that it ensures that you apply a minimal amount of both products (the retinoid and the skin lightener) on your skin.

Less is more with rx retinoids. They can become very drying when over applied, which can cause other skin problems. Having a mix of the two allows for easy spreading and a perfect ratio ( a pea sized of each to cover the whole face). You'll also find that your skin lightener and retinoid last twice as long this way!

I mix my retinoid and skin lightener directly in the palm of my hands and apply it to my skin.

Now on to buffering. This method is a lot easier to do since not all skin lighteners or moisturizers can directly mix with retinoids. Especially retinoid gel forms (you may notice some products crumble or pill up when you mix directly)

With buffering you are either applying the skin lightener or moisturizer first, then waiting 15-30 minutes and applying your retinoid OR the opposite - apply the retinoid first on bare, cleansed skin and sparingly layer the botanical lightener or moisturizer on top. Both ways work, some people prefer applying the retinoid first since they feel it allows the retinoid time to penetrate without any interferences. That is a valid point, but honestly if your skin cannot handle retinoids straight on, then there is no point in trying to deprive your skin of a buffering agent.

I should note that mixing and buffering do decrease the efficacy of the retinoid. This is important to know, since I get asked this often from people who are new to retinoids. Reducing the amount absorbed into the skin =  less chance of irritation.

Fortunatley, mixing and buffering does not decrease the efficacy of botanical skin lighteners. Like I stated earlier, they create a synergy this way. People who use hydroquinone to fade dark spots have a huge advantage mixing and buffering since retinoids combined with hydroquinone have proven to yield powerful, intense skin lightening results.

Other parts to Retinoids & Skin Lightening;

Part 1
Part 2: Common Questions
Part 3: The Purging Stage

=)

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17 Comments:

Anonymous Randy said...

Hey! Whch one do u thnk is d most useful, using diy vit.c serum in d morning or before sleeping???

August 10, 2010 at 11:13 PM  
Anonymous Bella said...

Hi!

I'm thinking of buying the neutrogena anti-wrinkle anti-blemish night clear cream that has retinoids as one of it's main ingredients. I'm wondering what order I should use these products in: Dhc Acerola extract, unt ex white 2 and the neutrogena cream.

And also what do you recommend as an effective spot lightened?

August 11, 2010 at 8:57 AM  
Blogger Mileena said...

Based on being 'most useful', using it in the morning is ideal since it fends off free radicals from pollutants and strengthens sunscreen protection (UV protection through antioxidation).

It can be used at night too, but since you specifically want it to be the most useful to you, daytime is the best.

August 11, 2010 at 10:51 AM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

hi is the body shop vitamin c range good i am in the uk and they are easy to buy the radiance mix has 5% vit c love your blog


http://www.thebodyshop.co.uk/_en/_gb/catalog/product.aspx?ParentCatCode=C_ShopByLine&catcode=C_ShopByLine_VitaminC&prdcode=83315m


http://www.thebodyshop.co.uk/_en/_gb/catalog/product.aspx?ParentCatCode=C_ShopByLine&CatCode=C_ShopByLine_VitaminC&prdcode=83285m

August 11, 2010 at 4:19 PM  
Blogger Mileena said...

Hi Bella,

Well that's a lot of active ingredients for one particular application, lol. I usually recommend using products like DHC Acerola (antioxidant) during the day.

The UNT can be applied first, then the Neutrogena anti wrinkle cream on top. It can be reverse too (Neutrogena first, then UNT), try each way out and see how it works. The constant rule is there is 15-30 minute wait in between if you do it this way, since the whole point of buffering is to allow each product to absorb.

For a spot lightener, hmmm, I've tried only one effective one and that was the Neostrata Spot Lightener with gigawhite.

August 11, 2010 at 5:08 PM  
Blogger Mileena said...

You're right, the radiance mix looks like a great mild way to get vitamin c in your routine. The Body Shop line is nice, I usually just use products from body shop since I tend to have very sensitive acne prone skin and I believe night treatment (vitamin c) has some oils in it that just don't gel well with my skin.

But their spritz and this look great. It's worth a shot IMO =)

August 11, 2010 at 5:11 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

thanks mileena i bought the avene diacneal today and sunscreen have just had a outbreak of spots under the skin, as i have pcos and hope this routine will clear them up have used retin a about 10 years ago when i bad acne and made my skin really clear again but just stopped the pill which i used for periods and spots and i think this is the cause but hope your recommendations will help.

i do allready use yoghurt mask on a regular basis and my skin realy glows and lightens with it will try your version as well.

i just happened to come across your blog for some spot remedies but am interested in lightening as holidays have darkened my arms, also my neck which pcos also is a factor, i have read most of it and have joined you on twitter. Also how can i stop getting darker on holidays as i do tan very quickly and it can be hard to avoid the sun...thanks for the reply

August 11, 2010 at 5:36 PM  
Blogger Mileena said...

All darkening/tanning can be prevented with a good high SPF/PPD sunscreen worn daily.

August 11, 2010 at 5:45 PM  
Anonymous Bella said...

Hi Mileena,

Thanks for your response!

I also use Paula's Choice 2% BHA Liquid nightly first thing after I cleanse - do you recommend waiting 5 to 10 minutes to let the BHA absorb and then apply either the UNT or the retinol (with 30 minutes in between)?

August 11, 2010 at 8:17 PM  
Blogger Mileena said...

Hi Bella,

You don't have to wait if you apply the UNT after the BHA.

It can be like:

Apply BHA
Apply UNT
*allow those 2 to absorb (since they are not conflicting one another) for 10-15 minutes*
Apply retinol

The reason I recommend waiting just to apply the retinol is because to reduce any potential irritation. BHA and retinol are both exfoliating so two of them at the same time can cause potential irritation.

August 11, 2010 at 8:51 PM  
Anonymous Samihah said...

Hi Mileena,

I don't use a retinoid because I don't know if I can get one prescribed as I don't have acne. Are there any over the counter ones I can use? I did buy the Avene one with I believe glycolic acid and 0.01% retinol. Does this count as a retinoid or not? If it does, would I be able to mix my skin lighteners with this?

August 12, 2010 at 12:20 PM  
Blogger Mileena said...

Hi Samihah,

Avene Diacneal does count as a retinoid. OTC retinoids are much, and I mean much weaker than prescription retinoids like tretinoin or synthetic versions of tretinoin. I go over this in the first part.

But you can mix it with your lightener.

August 12, 2010 at 5:16 PM  
Anonymous Jess said...

Hi! I have been using the UNT Ex White 2 with 3% tranexamic acid for a few weeks. Then I read a few articles that said transexamic acid and tretinoin should not be used together.

From Drugs.com: Coadministration of tretinoin with tranexamic acid may increase the risk of severe thromboembolic reactions. Use with caution.

From another site:

"Tranexamic acid may exacerbate the procoagulant effects of tretinoin"

I am pretty sure they are talking about the oral tranexamic acid and not topical. Although this still has me a bit worried. I'm ordering some more Phyto +, just in case. What do you think?

August 12, 2010 at 6:32 PM  
Blogger Mileena said...

I've heard of the procoagulant factors involving tretinoin. You're right in that this is definitley more an oral issue. Topically it shouldn't do any harm. Tretinoin alone can have procoagulant qualities, that is one of the many reasons (there are a lot) that Accutane (oral retinoid - Isotretinoin) shouldn't be used by pregnant women.

You should be fine.

August 12, 2010 at 9:13 PM  
Blogger Mileena said...

Furthermore topical tranexamic acid does not penetrate into the bloodstream so there is no absorption happen to the body. Just the skin.

August 12, 2010 at 9:14 PM  
Blogger Chelsea Clean Eats said...

Hi there. Just so I am clear on a few of the "Order of Operations", do you think using a Toner with glycolic acid in it (eg. NeoStrata Toner Level 2)is OK before applying a Tretinoin cream (bedtime only)? I just want to make sure I am not wasting my time and money on using the Tretinoin cream if I am messing with the efficacy of it.

November 16, 2010 at 9:03 PM  
Blogger Mileena said...

Hi Chelsea,

Sorry it took me so long to get back to you. Blog is currently being re-done and my life has been just so busy I can't even keep up with anything :/

But glycolic acid or any AHA is actually been shown to enhance the effects of Tretinoin. Most other ingredients are just buffers to tretinoin (niacinamide, lighteners etc) but alpha hydroxy acids help to further penetrate the tretinoin so using the Neostrata Toner Level 2 (which is awesome) is a great choice.

:)

November 20, 2010 at 2:37 PM  

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