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Friday, December 11, 2009

Fading Freckles

Lightening up or completley fading freckles is a topic that I have researched extensively on. I am very prone to getting freckles on my cheekbones, shoulders and chest. Back in my teen years, when I would go to the beach all the time in the summer, I acquired some heavy sun damage that I am still trying to reverse (and luckily I am almost done lightening those up).

There are two types of freckles: Ephelides freckles and freckles acquired from sun damage. Ephelides freckles are a genetic trait, meaning it is predisposed. They appear during the summer or when skin is exposed to little to excessive sun. Ephelides freckles fade on their own, but can be prevented completley from appearing with daily sunscreen use. Sun damage freckles appear in the later years, and can be anything from age spots, to large flat pigmented surfaces. These freckles are a result of cumulative sun exposure as opposed to genetics.

The number one thing I would recommend is wearing a high PPD sunscreen. Most sunscreens out there (especially US brand ones) have low PPD ratings. PPD is the measurement of UVA rays, while SPF is the measurement of UVB. UVA rays are responsible for stimulating melanin (darkening), so it's important that you find a sunscreen that has a decent PPD rating. Usually European, Canadian or Asian sunscreens have high PPD (brands like Bioderma, Vichy Capital Soleil products, La Roche Posay, RoC etc.) If you want to calculate the PPD of your sunscreen, check out my post
here which has a link which calculates how high your UVA protection is on your sunscreen.

You must be deligent with sunscreen use. It's important to follow
the correct rules of sunscreen use in order to prevent further freckles from forming.

A tip for boosting your UVA protection is to wear a Vitamin C serum underneath your sunscreen. Vitamin C also in itself lightens skin color, and can fade freckles significantly. I recommend checking out
Vichy Bi White Double Reveal Whitening Essence (contains ascorbyl glucoside a weaker form of Vitamin C, but highly stable and other lightening ingredients. Takes time but does an excellent job at fading freckles), as well as Skinceuticals, Cosmetic Skin Solutions vitamin c serums are great as well.

The next step is to get some sort of exfoliant. Effective exfoliation helps eliminate old pigmented cells with healthier ones. Chemical peels are fantastic for people with freckles, as well as AHA products (
Skinceuticals Pigment Regulator, DDF Holistic Lightener, M2 Skin Refinish, Oleda Super Skin Lightening Gel). I've heard many people having success with Finacea Gel as well.

Personally for my freckles, I have found the greatest success in mixing my retinoid (Retin-A gel) with a botanical skin lightener (which can also have AHAs in it, creating a snyergy of melanin reduction). I mix
Skinceuticals Phyto + with my retinoid and get great results. You can mix any botanical lightener with it, as long as it doesn't contain Vitamin C (since retinoids + C = loss of effectiveness).

If you are heavily freckled, and have exhausted all these treatment options I have stated, and achieved only minimal results - then the next step is to look into IPL laser. Check out my blog post on
other non-invasive laser treatments that can treat freckles and pigmentation.

Freckles take time to fade away, just like with most other pigmentation/skin lightening issues. The most important thing is high PPD sunscreen. Exfoliation mixed with lighteners, and Vitamin C serums are fantastic as well, but proper sunscreen is the number one prevention and treatment of freckles.
=)

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